Chapter One Round by Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps presents Chapter One Round, featuring a bold, architecturally-inspired round case housing Chapter One’s groundbreaking combination of complications. The interplay of the multi-level concentric circles of the case and dial entices the viewer’s eye inward to the majestic amphitheater of the indication-rich dial. There, attention might first alight either on the kinetic ballet of the sublimely finished tourbillon or on the eye-catching red of the counterpoised chronograph second hand, both in contrast to the backdrop of the dial’s dark brushed-satin finish. However, it isn’t long before the clear legibility of layout impresses with its elegant and functional design.

The circles within circles are perfectly balanced by the juxtaposition of the rectangular forms of the two roller indications showing the day and moon phase, which curve down from the top of the muscular case like buttresses and seamlessly integrate the lugs for the strap. Large polished chamfers running the full length on each side of the case catch and dynamically reflect the light and provide a foil to the brushed finish of the vertical elements.

Developed by a collaboration of world-renowned master watchmakers, Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One Round features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon.

Chapter One Round by Maîtres du Temps

A tour of the highly legible dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock. Stylish ergonomic correctors with a slide-to-unlock feature make adjusting the calendar indications a tactical pleasure.

“After working on Chapter One for nearly two years, I was struck by the strength in the design of this round version: it is far stronger in character and presence than I dared hope for,” says Peter Speake-Marin.

Actualizing the sophisticated case of Chapter One Round — comprising 96 individual components — requires the precision and care of an artist. The hand-polished and brushed-satin finishes of the three main case elements — central body and two lugs — demand meticulous exactitude to ensure that all of the finishes line up precisely so that the lines flow smoothly. The development of the case alone required a full year of research and development.

“Maîtres du Temps continues to diversify the Chapter One collection by offering timepieces with sophisticated design and technical mastery. This latest round-case version offers a sculptured structural feel with distinguished technical features,” says Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.

Master watchmaker Christophe Claret

The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s indications disguises the fact that Chapter One is an incredibly complex timepiece crafted from 678 finely finished and beautifully decorated components. Chapter One Round stands as an enduring testament to the skill, patience, and dexterity of its world-class creators.

The bold architectural form, innovative indications, and ergonomic functions of Chapter One belie the incredible complexity of its unique movement and the structural sophistication of its case.

Chapter One’s master watchmakers have come together to craft a horological work of art, both inside and out. Alternating finishes play with light around the case, imparting a sense of strength and majesty without leaving a trace of the complexity involved. The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components.

No wristwatch before Chapter One has ever featured a tourbillon movement incorporating a mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and phase of the moon and day of the week indications displayed on their own distinctive rolling bars. Efficiently transmitting power 90° to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was an immense technical challenge. That the challenge was met and surpassed is further testament to Chapter One’s enormously talented team.

A tour of the dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.

Master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin

Meticulous attention to every minute detail throughout the design and execution of all facets of Chapter One’s development has resulted in a timepiece of exceptional presence and refinement. The harmoniously integrated rolling bars, for example, had to be both large enough to be easily read and small enough to be ultralight and homogeneous with the case. Scintillating, laser-pierced moon and stars on the outer roller of the moon phase indication add to its stellar elegance.

Myriad details make Chapter One a timepiece that richly rewards a closer look, from the small window between the day roller and the tourbillon, which allows a unique view of the superbly finished gyrating tourbillon cage, to the contrast of the hands against the brushed-satin finish of the multi-strata dial. Even the locking corrector pushers are formed from curves running concentrically to perfectly follow the graceful flow of the circular case.

The story of Chapter One Round is one of glorious complexity in celebration of the men behind it.

Technical Specifications – C1R.55.2E.22-2

Chapter One Round Movement Dial Side

Displays
Central hands indicating hours and minutes
Central chronograph counterpoised second hand
60-minute counter at 12 o’clock
Retrograde date at 3 o’clock
Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock
One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock
Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock

Functions
Two-position winding crown: pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the time
Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown

Correctors
Date corrector at 2 o’clock
Day of the week corrector at 4 o’clock
Moon phase corrector at 8 o’clock
GMT corrector at 10 o’clock

Chapter One Round Movement Back Side

Case
18K 5N red gold
Number of components: 96
Dimensions: 62 mm x 59 mm x 22 mm
Sapphire crystals with double anti-reflective coating
Display back: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
High polish and satin finishes
Correctors with integrated locking system

Dial & Hands
Number of components: 24
Multi-faceted and beveled with brushed and velvet surface finishes
Diamond-cut facet applied markers with Super-LumiNova
Red counterpoised chronograph hand
Diamond-cut facet hands for chronograph counters, hour, minute, date, and GMT

Rollers
Day roller: matte anodized Anticorodal finished aluminum
Moon phase roller: anodized Anticorodal finished aluminum inside a matte anodized cover with laser-pierced moon and stars
Window between day roller and tourbillon

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator strap with 18K 5N red-gold deployant buckle

Source: www.maitresdutemps.com

CHRISTOPHE CLARET DualTow NightEagle

DEVELOPED IN 2009 FOR THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE MANUFACTURE CHRISTOPHE CLARET, THE DUALTOW COLLECTION WELCOMES A NEW MODEL

Nighteagle – when stealth does not go unnoticed

The DualTow is a gem of horological complexity and a distillate of the innovation, expertise and excellence inherent to the Manufacture Christophe Claret. Launched in 2009 to mark the company’s 20th anniversary, it has made a profound and lasting impact thanks to its combination of powerful aesthetics and technical inventiveness. At Baselworld 2010, the DualTow returns in an even more spellbinding version. Its subtly sophisticated face provides a discreet backdrop that highlights its exceptional mechanism. Presented in an all-black version and in black with white accents, its stealth-style shape, angular lugs and tinted sapphire bridges are reflected in its intriguing name: NightEagle.

The handful of watch companies capable of creating, developing and ensuring the reliability of totally exclusive and ultra-complex watch movements form an extremely exclusive fraternity to which Christophe Claret SA undeniably belongs. For over 20 years, the Manufacture has consistently devised some of the world’s most complicated new calibres.

Few brands admit to outsourcing in creating their most complex models, which explains why, beyond a select circle of connoisseurs, the name of Christophe Claret is little known to the public at large. Nonetheless, from the minute repeater – the first complication developed by this watchmaker – to the orbital tourbillon and the roller-display perpetual calendar, the Manufacture is indisputably one of the most innovative and effective companies in the watch industry.

The DualTow NightEagle – a single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon, endowed with several inventions, including a patented one – is a concentrated blend of the experience, expertise and mastery of the finest watchmaking acquired and cultivated by Christophe Claret SA. The DualTow collection will in due course comprise 68 unique configurations.

Representing a stunning alliance between the best of the watchmaking art and a boldly futuristic projection, the DualTow features a variety of references. First of all, to the ultra-secret world of stealth aircraft such as the American F-117 Night Hawk, reflected in the taut lines, sharp angles, tone-on-tone colours and transparency effects. These are indeed exactly the kind of avant-garde and confidential characteristics that inspired Lamborghini in creating its Reventon, the most powerful Lamborghini ever, an earth-bound alter ego of the F-22 Raptor. The design of its wheel rims with its emblematic angled spokes is echoed in the hammers of the NightEagle’s chronograph mechanism.

There are also nods to the world of heavy and powerful machinery, such as diggers and lunar modules with their caterpillar tracks: these vehicles convey an impression of raw power that is evoked in the belt-type display. And finally, it symbolically alludes to the royal eagle by borrowing some of the noble bird’s chief attributes, such as a black and white coat and a piercing gaze.

CHRISTOPHE CLARET DualTow NightEagle

BELT-TYPE DISPLAY WITH INTEGRATED WINDING

The two notched belts in a rubber specially developed for Christophe Claret are driven by cylinders placed on either end. To intensify the impression of motion, the design of their sides is directly inspired by racing-car wheel rims. Inside, a screw-tightening module enables ultra-precise adjustment ensuring optimally smooth operation. In addition to this mechanism, the minute belt houses a fully integrated winding and time-setting system.

The left-hand belt provides a digital display of the hour, and the right-hand one shows the minutes. On the NightEagle, this original system is enriched with a new and more dynamic instrument-panel type of font. The now slightly sloping numerals appear in black against a white background, or grey against a black background.

Source: www.swisstime.ch

ALPINA Genève Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

Following the great success of its first Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture – the Full Black version – at Baselworld in 2009, ALPINA Genève is proud to present two new models in gold, both issued in an extremely limited series of just 18 numbered pieces.

These new versions, both as astonishing as the first, feature a “Full Black” dial and a caliber consisting of 188 parts, equipped with a Silicium Escapement Wheel and the latest development: a Silicium lever.

After three years of Research and Development, the experts at ALPINA Genève, Swiss manufacturer of high quality sports watches, were ready to present the brand new, inhouse automatic Manufacture Tourbillon Regulator movement. A team of specialist designers, engineers and watchmakers worked hand-in-hand to revive ALPINA as a true Manufacture. Supported by the latest in high-precision equipment and driven by a passion for innovation.
Based on the award-winning Manufacture Regulator caliber, ALPINA Genève developed its own Manufactured Tourbillon Regulator: the AL-980, completely
conceived within its workshops in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. A unique movement that presents several specific, innovative features: Silicium Escapement Wheel and Silicium lever, Smart Weight Balancing™, fast oscillation at 28’800 BpH and an individually numbered Tourbillon cage.

ALPINA Genève Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

The specific and technical designs of these new Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture models capitalize on the strong brand philosophy of ALPINA: highest level of accuracy, extremely high readability, shock resistance, sturdiness and reliability. The timepiece, with a bold case diameter of 48 mm, is crafted from either titanium with a pink gold bezel, or pink gold with a black ceramic bezel. The matt black dial features finely brushed steel ALPINA Double-Digit indexes. The iconic ‘Extreme’ design elements remain, and have been coupled with a more elaborate dial design: satin-brushed touches of black in the center of the “Regulator” sub-dial, skeletonized hands in black brushed steel, unique and originally decorated bridges in the Tourbillon cage and a black PVD signature ALPINA oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The Tourbillon is one of the most valued and sought-after complications by collectors and aficionados of premium timepieces alike. A Tourbillon mechanism is extremely complex to manufacture due to the required accuracy of all the parts involved. It requires highly qualified and experienced watchmakers to be able to manufacture the ALPINA Tourbillon caliber. By combining technical complexities with the sports characteristics that contribute to the charm of this timepiece, ALPINA presents undoubtedly one of its most extreme creations in history…

deLaCour BiTourbillon

(Hong Kong, 18 January 2010) – Sparkle Roll Group Limited (“Sparkle Roll” or “the Company”)(SEHK: 970), is principally engaged in distributorships of top-tier luxury goods in the PRC, announced that its wholly-owned subsidiary, Sparkle Roll Watch & Jewellery Ltd. has signed a contract with deLaCour to be the exclusive global distributor of the brand BiTourbillon (“BiTourbillon”) watches.

Sparkle Roll is responsible for the marketing, distribution, pricing and sale of this renowned Swiss watch to all countries over the world with particular focus on PRC, Hong Kong, and Macau. The term of this global distributorship is for a period of 10 years, commenced on 1 Jan 2010. The BiTourbillon will be available at Sparkle Roll’s self-operated luxury centre in Beijing and also available in the worldwide online shopping network.

BiTourbillon is the world’s first dual differential tourbillon watch allowing both Local and GTM time to be read. BiTourbillon watches were conceived as a collection of unique pieces and they have demonstrated the finest watch making techniques and stringent quality as well as process controls for the creation of each unique master piece.

Mr. Ivan Tong, Chairman of Sparkle Roll, said, “As a purveyor of high-end luxury items, Sparkle Roll has built a reputation for incomparable service and value. With our outstanding management and network with various branded items, Sparkle Roll has won the trust and confidence of many top international brands. We have already established a leading position in the rapidly growing luxury markets in the realm of high-end automobiles, watches and jewelry. The recruitment of deLaCour represents another business milestone for the Group of carrying the most unique and collectible luxury pieces of the world.”

deLaCour BiTourbillon

About Sparkle Roll Group Limited (SEHK: 970)

Sparkle Roll Group Limited (SEHK: 970) is currently listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange and principally engaged in the distributorships of top-tier luxury goods, including ultra luxury automobiles such as Bentley, Lamborghini and Rolls-Royce in Beijing; exclusive distributorships of super deluxe branded watches Richard Mille, DeWitt, Parmigiani; cohesive partnerships with top-tier branded jewellery Boucheron and renowned French fine wines company, Groupe Duclot, for the PRC; as well as comics publishing and the multi-media development business in Hong Kong and the PRC.

About deLaCour

Born from a passion for avant-garde design and craftsmanship, deLaCour was established to offer alternative and exclusive creations to the world of luxury watch making. In 2003, deLaCour unveiled their first collection at the world’s most important watch and Jewellery show in Basel. The heart of the initial concept of deLaCour is Bichrono, which was represented as the first watch in history to possess a double automatic chronograph movement.
deLaCour’s conception of creativity is what differentiated the brand, especially with its award-winning slogan “Since Tomorrow”, meaning the history of the brand is written in the future. Each deLaCour model appears in limited edition and is made in very small quantity. With headquarters in Geneva, deLaCour is now present in over 35 countries with more than 70 points of sale.

Sparkle Roll Group Limited www.hk970.com
deLaCour www.deLaCour.ch

OMEGA Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition

18 January 2010 – The OMEGA Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the ultimate expression of the watchmaker’s art. Each watch is handcrafted in OMEGA’s Cellule Haut de Gamme (Tourbillon Atelier) in Bienne by a select group of horologists.

In a Tourbillon movement, all of the main components responsible for the timepiece’s precision are assembled in a rotating cage. OMEGA is the only watchmaker ever to have created a central Tourbillon. Its titanium cage rotates completely every 60 seconds, offsetting the effect of gravity on the performance of the watch.

Tourbillon technology, dazzling design

The Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition combines the complex Tourbillon technology with dazzling design elements.

The movement has a luxurious sun-brushed pearlescent finish; its bridges and mechanisms are hand polished. The rotor with its sapphire plate has been newly designed and is etched with the words “Limited Edition” and the watch’s individual serial number (out of 18). The Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is equipped with a Breguet balance spring.

The Central Tourbillon’s hands cannot be mounted on a central shaft in the conventional way. They are etched on to sapphire crystal disks and propelled by gearing at the peripheries of the disks. The result is dramatic – they appear to float freely above the movement.

One watchmaker’s masterpiece

To make a skeletonized version of the Central Tourbillon, the watchmaker begins by sawing away any non-essential material from the plates and bridges, then bevelling their edges. Unlike products from conventional workshops, each Tourbillon is the work of one watchmaker who spends up to 540 hours on the creation of the skeletonized version of the watch. This means that every Skeletonized Central Tourbillon is unique – no two are exactly alike.

Each watchmaker engraves his or her personal initials on the underside of the Tourbillon base to assure that all parts can be returned to their maker after they have been galvanized. When a Central Tourbillon is returned to OMEGA for servicing, it will be placed in the hands of the original watchmaker.

Only 18 pieces of this Skeletonized Tourbillon Coaxial Platinum Limited Edition will be produced.

An OMEGA Co-Axial movement

The outstanding chronometric performance of OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 2636 is enhanced by the state-of-the-industry escapement which has re-defined the way mechanical wristwatches are being made. The complex movement is assembled from 320 individual parts.

The remarkable Central Tourbillon calibre is housed in a platinum case presented with a black alligator bracelet.

While the Skeletonized Central Tourbillon watches are accurate – each one is a COSC-certified chronometer – they are particularly valued for their beauty and the complexity of the Tourbillon mechanism. Every component in the movement and case is produced exclusively for the Central Tourbillons.

The OMEGA Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the exquisite creation of a legendary watch brand working at the peak of its powers.

HUBLOT Gold King Power Tourbillon GMT

The gold color of this watch is completely unique. It is the result of a newly developed, rarefied alloy made especially for this timepiece. The alloy is known as “King Gold”, and is obtained primarily by adding 5% platinum, distinguishing it from all other currently known alloys and making it all the more precious. The delicacy of its microstructure ensures that the alloy is perfectly stable, which means durable quality and a long-lasting intense red color. Its enduring, intense red and toughness create a unique aesthetic.

Technical Specifications

Case
“King Power” 48 mm diameter in “King Gold”

Bezel
Microblasted black ceramic with moulded black rubber, with 6 relief black PVD H-shaped titanium screws

Crystal
Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective treatment

Bezel lug
Black composite resin

Lateral inserts
Black composite resin

Case-back
“King Gold”

Crown
“King Gold” with black rubber insert

Push-piece
“King Gold” with black rubber insert

Water resistance
100 m or 10 ATM

Dial
Multilayer with microblasted gold-dusted matt black counters and flange, gold-plated applique indexes and black SuperLuminova™ transfers, the
Retrograde Date is shown at 9 o’clock, the GMT dial at 1 o’clock in red and blue and the Tourbillon cage at 5 o’clock Hands Gold-plated hands with black SuperLuminova™

Movement
HUB6121 Tourbillon GMT Retrograde Date

Dimensions Diameter:
Ø 35.60 mm

Thickness:
6.90 mm

No. of components
278

Number of jewels
30

Balance
Screw balance, flat hairspring

Vibrations
21,600 Vib/h (3Hz)

Tourbillon Cage
Ø 12.50 mm

Power Reserve
90 hours

Bridges
“Colimaçon”-decorated, 5N18 treatment

Screws
Polished and blocked, angled screw and slot, nickel-plated

Main plate
Microblasted, black chrome treatment

Upper plate
“Colimaçon”-decorated, 5N18 treatment

Wristlet
Adjustable articulated black rubber

Clasp
Folding buckle in “King Gold” and gold PVD steel

Edition limited to 28 pieces numbered from 01/28 to 28/28

Source: www.hublot.com

BREGUET Tradition Fusee Tourbillon With Silicon Balance Spring (REF. 7047PT/11/9ZU)

The Breguet silicon balance spring enhances the new Breguet Tradition timepiece

REF.7047PT/11/9ZU
The balance spring is one of a series of vital parts at the heart of the movement. Its regular oscillations give the movement its rhythm and regulate the flow of time. Crucial to the workings of a mechanical watch movement, the balance spring is also the most responsive in terms of improvements to timekeeping precision.

The balance spring is a very fine coil spring. Usually made of metal, it is vulnerable to shocks, magnetic fields and even the pull of gravity, which can cause warping. Made and marketed by Nivarox-FAR, a Swatch Group enterprise, the alloy traditionally utilized to make balance springs is designed to increase its rigidity as its temperature increases, offsetting in this way the balance’s increased inertia stemming from the latter’s heat expansion.

Long viewed as one of the key components of movement precision, the balance spring has benefited from a lot
of research and experimentation, with Breguet leading the way.

In 1795, Breguet conceived the “Breget overcoil” spring, today still the reference in terms of balance springs, the choice of the finest watch houses and craft watchmakers. A.-L. Breguet got the idea of altering the balance spring’s terminal curve by raising its end and bending it slightly as a way of improving its isochronism.

Another Breguet, Louis-Clément, in 1830 sought to prevail over magnetic fields by crafting balance springs in glass instead of metal. Breguet himself had made balance springs in gold to counter oxidation. One such cylindrical spring was fitted in the celebrated Marie -Antoinette watch; its shape was designed to improve considerably its isochronism by repoising its center of gravity.

In 2006, Breget introduced its first wristwatches with silicon balance spring and escapement. It combines the advantages and qualities of the earlier experiments. Silicon also possesses advantages of its own:

• Silicon is totally impervious to magnetic fields. Practical measurements have confirmed that when exposed to over twice the magnetic influence mandated by NIHS standards, silicon posted results 15 times better than the standard.
• The manufacturing operations of a silicon balance spring yield a broad variety of shapes, facilitating the highly accurate adaptation of its shape to precisely calculated models. The gap between two silicon coils can be varied according to the spring’s specific function because silicon springs are produced by direct in-depth etching of silicon wafers and not by spiral winding like metal springs.
• Silicon balance springs are lighter than metal ones and thus less prone to deformation caused by the pull of gravity. They are also less vulnerable to shock s and provide far superior resistance to corrosion.
• Components fashioned from silicon are subjected to a special process that greatly improves their resistance to handling and shocks.

These silicon components are already in industrial production and incorporated in four Breguet calibres which are themselves in volume production.

One of the challenges of using silicon balance springs is the determination of their temperature coefficient. It defines the watch’s capacity to maintain a steady rate whatever its running temperature. In this area, Breguet has benefited from a joint development with the Swiss Electronics and Microtechnology Centre (Swatch Group participation) and two other Swiss watch houses, for which a patent has been awarded.

After four years of service in various watch movements, Breguet can report satisfactory results with flat silicon balance springs. The next step was to turn out silicon balance springs featuring the celebrated ”Breguet” terminal curve. Actually putting a curve into a sliver of silicon represented no mean exploit in the world of watchmaking. The springs are usually cut from flat wafers and remain uniformly thin strips. Getting silicon, devoid of the malleability of metal, to form a bend rising up from the coil required a complete rethinking of the production process, a technical challenge brilliantly mastered by Breguet technicians. The Breguet silicon balance spring will now be adding its specific advantages to silicon’s on all Breguet movements, whatever their basic configuration.

Today, the new Breguet silicon balance spring is featured in the Breguet Tradition 7047 model with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission. Inspired by the design of the first tourbillon -equipped pocket watches devised by Breguet himself, a platinum version is now available fitted with a movement fashioned in an anthracite-toned metal alloy. Its surface finish was obtained by a new and improved electrodeposition process using an alloy of precious metals of the platinum group with a hue darker than ruthenium’s.

The fusee-and-chain transmission connected to the barrel ensures constant force for as long as the watch is running. A number of patents applications involve the large tourbillon resonator at one o’clock on the watch face, one for a titanium balance and three relating to Breguet silicon balance springs. A further patent was awarded for a power-reserve indicator positioned directly on the barrel.

Displaying impressive technical sophistication, this timepiece is the pride of Manufacture Breguet . The company is and remains an undisputed pioneer in horological research and development. Not only does it have numerous inventions to its credit, it is also able to exploit its technical advances in timepieces available on the market without undue delay or quantitative limitations.

Its new silicon balance spring opens promising avenues of development for Breguet, sure to generate further surprising achievements in the years ahead.

Description of the Breguet REF. 7047PT/11/9ZU

Case round in 950 Platinum with finely fluted case-band. Sapphire case-back. Diameter: 41 mm. Rounded horns welded to the case, with screw pins securing the strap. Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m).

Dial in silvered 18K gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine off-centered at 7 o’clock. Individually numbered and signed Breguet. Chapter ring with Roman numerals. 60 -second tourbillon positioned at 1 o’clock. Open-tipped Breguet hands in polished steel.

Movement hand-wound mechanical movement clad in an anthracite gray alloy of platinum -group metals, with tourbillon regulator. Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 569. 16 lines, 43 jewels, 2.5-Hz frequency. Power reserve of 50 hours with power reserve indication on the barrel drum. Torque regularity
throughout the operation of the watch provided by fusee-and-chain transmission. Upper bridge of the tourbillon carriage in titanium.
Breguet-shaped thin bar (barrette) in nonmagnetic stainless steel. Straight-line lever escapement. Breguet balance in titanium with four adjustment screws in gold. BREGUET balance spring in silicon. Adjusted in 6 positions.

Limited-Edition Chapter One by Maîtres du Temps

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS, Switzerland – The warm, rich color of the 5N red-gold case and matching hands blends in harmonious juxtaposition with the striking jet-black dial and rollers on this latest very limited-edition model in the exclusive Chapter One collection.

Developed by a collaboration of world-renowned master watchmakers, Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis and Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon.

The indication-rich dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock. The contrast of the elegantly sculpted red-gold hands against the raven-wing black of the dial provides clear legibility in a discreet, highly- refined setting. Stylish ergonomic correctors make adjusting the calendar indications a secret pleasure.

“Maîtres du Temps continues to diversify the Chapter One collection by offering limited-edition timepieces with sophisticated design and technical mastery. This latest red-gold edition provides another opportunity to present a timepiece with not only distinguished technical features, but with the warmth and fire of red gold adding to its appeal,” says Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.

The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s indications disguises the fact that Chapter One is an incredibly complex timepiece crafted from 662 finely finished and beautifully decorated components. From the innovative combination of complications in its movement to the majestic sweep of curves in its case, Chapter One stands as an enduring testament to the skill, patience, and dexterity of its world-class creators.

About Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps is a pantheon where teams of independent master watchmakers at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie collaborate to develop innovative, interesting, and exclusive timepieces.  Founded by Steven Holtzman and based in Switzerland, Maîtres du Temps crafts limited-series mechanical masterpieces, each the synthesis of the experience, art, and techniques of the masters who create it. For more information, please visit www.maitresdutemps.com.

Technical Specifications – C1T.55.2E.12-5

Manual-wind mechanical movement, one-minute tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, patented precise moon phase indication on roller

Displays
Central hands indicating hours and minutes
Central chronograph counterpoised second hand
60-minute counter at 12 o’clock
Retrograde date at 3 o’clock
Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock
One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock
Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock

Functions
- Two-position winding crown: pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the time
- Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown

Correctors
- Date corrector at 2 o’clock
- Day of the week corrector at 4 o’clock
- Moon phase corrector at 8 o’clock
- GMT corrector at 10 o’clock

Caliber SHC02
- Dimensions: 51 mm x 32 mm
- Number of components: 558
- Number of jewels: 58
- Power reserve: 60 hours
- Tourbillon rotation: 60 seconds
- Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)

Case
- 18K 5N red gold
- Number of components: 104
- Dimensions: 63 mm x 45 mm x 18 mm
- Sapphire crystals with double anti-reflective coating
- Display back: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- High polish and satin finishes on compound-curve surfaces
- Correctors with integrated locking system

Dial
- 18K gold
- Number of components: 7
- Multi-faceted and beveled
- Printed Roman numerals
- Engine-turned sun-ray guilloche
- Red counterpoised chronograph hand
- 18K red-gold sword-shaped hands for chronograph counter, hour, minute, date, and GMT

Rollers
Day barrel: anodized Anticorodal
Moon phase barrel: anodized Anticorodal inside a matte anodized cover with laser-pierced moon and stars
Window between day roller and tourbillon

Strap
Alligator strap with 18K 5N red-gold deployant buckle

Please note that specifications may change without notice.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 in platinum

Three of the greatest complications in the most complete expression of the watchmaking arts and crafts practiced by Vacheron Constantin

The Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” belongs to the super-complication category as a worthy heir of Vacheron Constantin’s 250th anniversary masterpiece and as the ultimate demonstration of its unequaled skills. In fact, this incomparable timepiece harbours three of the most sophisticated complications in the universe of high-class watchmaking: the tourbillon, the perpetual calendar and the minute-repeater. Such a revelation of the quintessence of the watchmaker’s art provides the most accomplished expression of that art and its three score of associated crafts that are in daily practice at Vacheron Constantin.

Heir to the Tour de l’Ile

As the descendant of the Tour de l’Ile watch, the exceptional and much noticed flagship watch of the brand’s 250th anniversary in 2005, the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755”, took three years of development and thousands of hours of work to get right. It is the most complicated model in Vacheron Constantin’s current catalog. Its movement consists of no fewer than 602 parts fitted into a diameter of 33.30 mm only 7.90 mm high. This feat of true prowess also delivers more than 55 hours of running time, indicated through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

An unprecedented strike governor

Among its three complications, the minute-repeater is undoubtedly the one handled in the most original way, as if yet another demonstration that Vacheron Constantin remains one of the world’s most inventive manufacturers were strictly necessary. Caught between the desire to extend the frontiers of technical possibility and concern over the practical use of this multi-complication timepiece, Vacheron Constantin’s engineers and watchmakers came up with an original device to regulate the repeater’s chiming rate: a centripetal governor.
The role of this device is to steady the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs of a chiming watch to repeat the hours, quarters and minutes in a series of notes. Without a regulator, the spring-driven strike would come out in a rush of indiscernible notes.

The device developed by Vacheron Constantin goes further than the more traditional strike regulator – a noisy recoil escapement with a lever that is subject to wear.

During the development of the movement for the Tour de l’Ile anniversary watch of 2005, Vacheron Constantin’s engineers and watchmakers sought to replace the strike’s escapement governor with a totally silent system that would reduce wear. A centrifugal governor existed, essentially a flywheel with a pair of weights that moved away from the centre as it spun to slow the wheel by increasing its inertia. Nevertheless, true to the tradition of a brand whose motto recalls that it is always possible to do better, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers preferred to steer their choice towards a centripetal strike governor.

This device has two weights shaped so as to act as a brake on the governor’s rotating shaft, thus evening-out the energy released by the repeater’s spring. To achieve this, it uses the opposite centrifugal and centripetal forces. When the governor spins, the centrifugal force pivots one end of the weights outwards so that the other end acts as a brake on the central shaft to bring the rotation and the strike to a steady rate. This original and undoubtedly unique device is quite silent. The enthusiast can satisfy his curiosity while marveling at the spinning governor through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

In addition to its minute-repeater, the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” features a tourbillon, which, apart from its function of equalizing the effects of gravity on different positions of the balance, offers the visual attraction of an exposed mechanism that allows the beating heart of the watch to be observed. The perpetual calendar, which holds the future in its mechanical memory, tracks the meanderings of the Gregorian calendar without intervention apart from resetting the date every 400 years.

Patrimony Traditionnelle calibre 2755

Following the lore of the great complications

Vacheron Constantin not only entirely developed the Calibre 2755; it was also manufactured in its workshops, apart from standard parts. Each component is made with a margin so that the specialists who assemble and adjust them can remove material to introduce the right amount of shake. This procedure, which is in perfect keeping with the tenets governing the design and manufacture of the great horological complications, ensures the best possible performance and makes each movement unique. Once assembled, the Calibre 2755 beats at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations an hour and has a power reserve of about 55 hours. The level of its finish can be appreciated in the painstakingly chamfered edges of the bridge plates adorned with Côtes de Genève, the circular graining on the baseplate and the rounding-off of the tourbillon bridge. The high-status Hallmark of Geneva on the movement denotes its compliance with the twelve requirements of this independent and legally sanctioned label of workmanship, provenance, accuracy, durability and watchmaking proficiency.

Sound quality

This amazing calibre is fitted in a generously proportioned platinum case, 44 mm in diameter and designed to achieve the most remarkable quality of sound from the minute-repeater. The optimal tuning of the strike is made possible by the ingenious use of the blocks to which the chimes are attached. The rest of the exterior has also benefited from multiple refinements: dials available in silvered or slate finishes, and the folding clasp in 950 platinum with a half Maltese Cross. Noteworthy also is that the dial is shifted slightly off-centre to better display the tourbillon carriage.

Minute-repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar: bringing the three major complications together in a single timepiece remains a rare exercise in style and mastery. Its complexity severely limits the number of Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” platinum watches that can be produced.

Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega 4

36 complications, 25 of them visible, 1,483 components, a 1000-year calendar, a price tag of 2.7 million dollars, and 5 years’ work: what others have simply dreamed of, Franck Muller has made a reality!

Never has the Maison de Haute Horlogerie better deserved its name of “Master of Complications”, pulverizing the record number of complications ever housed in a single wristwatch.

The challenge for the Master Watchmakers of Genthod was enormous: how to embed all the complications known to this day in a watch that was designed to be worn. The Aeternitas movement served as a base, while the Mega 4 represents the apotheosis of the art of watchmaking with its grand and small Westminster chime striking-work, the only one available on the market with a tourbillon visible on the dial. Added to this are a minute repeater, a mono-pushpiece split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar secular, and an equation of time which only varies by 6.8 seconds per lunar month, the equivalent of one day every thousand years!

Although the first piece of this exceptional, limited series was presented to an American collector at a ceremony in Monaco last November, the Master Watchmakers of Genthod are already putting the finishing touches to a second Aeternitas Mega 4, which will be available in the very near future.

And for all those who would like to share the dream of Franck Muller’s creations first-hand, the Master of Complications has organised two WPHH – World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie – exhibitions this year at its Watchland site in Genthod on 17-23 January and 17-27 March from 9.00 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Franck Muller will be offering watch professionals and the international press a comprehensive view of its seven brands: Franck Muller, Pierre Kunz, ECW, Rodolphe Montres & Bijoux, Barthelay, Backes & Strauss and Martin Braun. The new collections will be exhibited in purpose-built pavilions, with elegantly arranged stands, sophisticated design and contemporary decor meeting the most stringent demands. More than 5,000 visitors and 600 journalists are expected during the two exhibitions. This prestigious event is a must for both professionals and haute horlogerie aficionados!

For appointments or further information: info@franckmuller.ch

Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega 4 with 36 complications, 25 of them visible

The Aeternitas Mega is the pinnacle of success in the art of watch-making in terms of complexity and complications. A grandiose work of art culminating in the design of the most complex wrist watch ever made in the world thanks to the multifaceted skills of our watch-makers and constructors. Each of the 1,483 components was designed to give the watch an elegant design in the pure traditions of the old “cadraturiers” (the mechanisms located under the dial) of the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. This watch inspires countless emotions as an exceptional time piece and simply unique in the eyes of lovers in the art of fine mechanics and luxury watch making.

From the very beginning, the Mega was incorporated in to the Aeternitas project and is, indeed, the culmination of this project. The basis was always the same, an automatic Tourbillon, but, with two motors. The plate has been hollowed out on the dial side to hold the striking mechanism.

In comparison to the Aeternitas versions, the four Aeternitas Mega versions only have a thickness of 0.2mm as it had to accommodate the striking mechanism of the “Chime of Westminster”. The Mega sets itself apart thanks to its “Grande Sonnerie” Chime of Westminster striking mechanism sounding on the hours and quarter hours. In the “Petite Sonnerie” version, the strike on the hour is removed, and it only sounds on the quarter hours.

The programming of the large and small striking mechanisms is done through simple pressure on a waterproof push-button placed at the 10.30 mark on the watchcase. This push-button programmable function enables the movement of the striking mechanism to be stopped. The minute repeater enables the “Chime of Westminster” to be activated at any time, and so giving the complete strike of the hours, the Westminster quarters and the minutes. The “Grand Sonnerie” is the only watch in which the Tourbillon is visible on the dial side, which limits the space available for the “Grand Sonnerie” mechanism and thus makes the design even more complicated.

The glass sapphire case back enables the harmoniously chiselled and decorated pieces that overlap to be admired in a stunning combination as a dazzling ballet. This masterpiece of complications and know how was entirely designed and manufactured by the Franck Muller group and once again demonstrates their vast array of skills and ability in the Art of HAUTE HORLOGERIE.

Aeternitas Mega 4 Movment

Technical Specifications

Reference:
8888 MGA T CCR QPSE

Caliber:
FM 3480 QPSE

Movement
Mechanic Tourbillon, Carillon Westminster on 4 hammers and 4 gongs, Chronograph with fly-back mechanism and only one push-piece, Perpetual Calendar Secular, Equation of time, Two additional time zones, Automatic self-winding mechanism for the movement and the Westminster carillon.

Power Reserve: 
Movement: 3 days
Chaime: 24 Hours

Frequency:
18′000 Alternances per hour.

Dimensions of the movement:
34.40 x 41.40 Height 13.65

Number of movement components: 
1483

Number of Jewels:
99

Number of wheels:
91

Movement decoration: 
Côtes de Genève, diamond polishing, hand-bevelling, circular graining, bi-colour rhodium-plating and hand-engraving.

Display:
Hours, Minutes, 24 hours, Chronograph, Fly-back, Minutes counter, hour counter retrograde, two time zones, Movement power reserve.

Display of the chime:
Grande or petite chime.
Chime or silence. Chime power reserve.

Perpetual calendar display:
Date retrograde, Day, Month, Year, Leap year (cycle of 4 years), no leap year (cycle of 100 years), leap year (cycle of 400 years), Equation of time.

Functions :
Winding-shaft with 2 positions.
7 push-pieces.
4 correctors

Dial:
Sun-stamped translucent lacquered white dial.

Case:
Cintrée Curvex 8880, 18 karat white gold.
Width: 42.00 mm x Length: 61.00 mm x Height: 19.15mm

Strap:
Hand-sewn alligator