F.P.Journe Vagabondage II limited edition of 69 pieces in platinum

The Long-Awaited Limited Series for Collectors

F.P.Journe presents the second chapter of the Vagabondage Limited Series, “Vagabondage II”, which will be produced in a limited series of 69 pieces in platinum and 68 pieces in 18K red gold, available from all authorized F.P.Journe points of sale around the world in December 2009.

It is essential to retrace the history of this creation, which has made its mark in the watchmaking history and represents the quintessence of anti-marketing. In 2004, for the 30th Anniversary of Antiquorum, François-Paul Journe created a unique piece to be sold at a Geneva charity auction in favour of the ICM, research institute for Brain and Spinal Cord diseases in Paris, www.icm-institute.org. This was an F.P.Journe Invenit et Fecit creation indeed, but with an unusual shape. For the first time, the Geneva Manufacture created a watch that was not round, with a flat Tortue-shaped case and a dial without the F.P.Journe signature.

Following that charity auction, for which 3 pieces were produced – one in rose gold, one in white gold and one in yellow gold, which sold for three times their value – a limited series of 69 pieces in platinum was launched with an 18K rose gold movement. This series was sold without promotion or publicity of any kind, and without any picture. Collectors went wild for it. A legend was born.

It goes without saying the Vagabondage II series has been long awaited by collectors. This second edition present a manually-wound movement and an original digital time display, with small second at 6, power reserve at 12. The 18K rose gold movement is visible through the dial in smoked sapphire crystal, also without the F.P.Journe signature.

F.P.Journe Vagabondage II limited edition of 68 pieces in 18K red gold, back

The 69 pieces in platinum feature white gold windows with blue hands, while the 68 pieces in 18K red gold have gold windows and hands.
Owners of a Vagabondage I will be given priority for the purchase of an identical limited number from the Vagabondage II series.

A third Vagabondage edition will very likely be created as new technical advances dictate. Each watch of the “Vagabondage” series will have an original digital display system.

F.P.Journe continually re-invents traditional watchmaking techniques and constantly works to produce novel time measurement instruments.

His peers the world over recognize his integrity in the realization of innovative pieces, his ingenuity, and his unique technical sense. A recipient of all the most prestigious horological prizes, F.P.Journe has been granted numerous awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie of Geneva, among them three influential “Golden Hand” awards.

François-Paul Journe is one of the last remaining Master watchmakers committed to defending the fundamental values of Haute Horology, as he pursues his quest to restore authenticity to the history and practice of time measurement.

Technical Specifications

Movement
Calibre 1509
Manual winding
Movement in 18K rose gold
30 jewels

Dimensions of the Movement
Overall diameter: 29.3 x 28.2 mm
Casing-up diameter: 29.3 x 28.4 mm
Overall height: 5.28 mm
Height of winding system: 3.13 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90 mm

Balance
Four inertia weights
Flat Anachron microflamed spring
Mobile stud holders
Free sprung
Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600 v / h, (3Hz)
Inertia: 10.10 mg /cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dial up: > 260°
24h dial up: > 260°

Principal characteristics
1 minute constant force device, patented No EP 1528443
Digital indication of hours and minutes
Time adjustment via crown in position 2
Pallets escapement with 15 tooth escape wheel
Two position crown
Sub-second at 6h00
Power reserve at 12h00

Power reserve
40 hours

Decoration
High quality

Partly circular grained base plate and Geneva waves
Polished screw heads, chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends

Case
Flat Tortue shape 45 x 37.5 mm
Height 8.00 mm
Dial Smoked Sapphire

Limited Series
Platinum PT 950 69 pieces
White gold windows and blue hands
Rose gold 18K 68 pieces
Rose gold windows and hands

Number of parts
Movement without dial: 223
Cased-up on leather strap: 256

Source: www.fpjourne.com

URWERK UR-203 Face

Cam, transporters, telescopic hands, black platinum; for those already familiar with URWERK’s creations, these words are the precursors to a shot of adrenaline. And with reason, the URWERK team, remaining loyal to their über-futuristic creed, have returned with more robotic hour indications. Robotics? Judge the dial for yourself, the UR-203 reveals its micro-mechanics for all to see. The mesmerizing theatre unfolds both on stage and in the corridors. Pistons are actuated to indicate the hour and wheels turn in their wake. Time is translated into a metallic choreography of sublime fluidity.

The satellite complication is the nerve center of the UR-203, crafted from ARCAP P40, a stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy. The intricate structure is milled with micron-precision and then CNC machined to reveal the internal clockwork. Within the UR-203 the cams, the rubies and the transporters that ensure the ultra-precise alignment of the telescopic hands indicating the minutes, are all revealed.

The precision of manufacture is incredibly demanding, e.g. the thickness of each transporter is down to 1/1000th of a millimeter, 0.895mm to be precise, to allow for an ultra-fine 0.005mm lubricating layer of MOVIC.

“This UR-203 is a wild idea of Martin Frei (URWERK co-founder and designer)”, explains Felix Baumgartner, URWERK co-founder and master watchmaker. “Martin imagined a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence. We had to start again at the beginning to develop this model, we sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module.

URWERK UR-203 Detail

The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.” The carousel, hour satellites, telescopic minute hands and dial weigh 65% less than the proceeding model (UR-202). The satellite complication now tips the scales at a feather-light 3.57 grams.

The telescopic minute hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14; 15 – 44; 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-203 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a smaller, comfortably sized case providing the wearer with the best of both worlds.

An «Oil Change» indicator and a «Horological Odometer» spanning 150 years complete the open dial, both original URWERK developments. The «Oil Change» indicator informs the wearer when a service is due; an operation recommended every three years of movement operation. Similar to the odometer of a car, the UR-203’s «Horological Odometer» keeps track of the total number of years of operation of the movement.

The UR-203 is also equipped with an innovative automatic winding system that is regulated by URWERK’s double turbine system. The turbines are mounted on rubies and are controlled by a three-position lever offering the choice of « FREE », « SPORT » or « STOP ». The position determines the force available from the automatic rotor to wind the mainspring. FREE, where the turbines spin freely; SPORT, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and STOP, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked. The speed of the turbines can reach a maximum 16,500 RPM.

URWERK UR-203 Explications

Technical Specifications

Model:
UR-203 – Edition spéciale of 20 pieces

Case:
black PE-CVD coated platinum; case micro-sanded; titanium back plate

Movement:
calibre UR 7.03 ; mechanical automatic winding movement regulated by double turbines; 39 jewels

Functions:
satellite complication; telescopic minute hands

Dimensions:
45.7mm X 43.5mm X 15mm.

Dial:
ARCAP P40.

Indications:
hours by satellites, minutes by telescopic hands, Oil Change, 150 year Horological Odometer

OMEGA Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition

18 January 2010 – The OMEGA Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the ultimate expression of the watchmaker’s art. Each watch is handcrafted in OMEGA’s Cellule Haut de Gamme (Tourbillon Atelier) in Bienne by a select group of horologists.

In a Tourbillon movement, all of the main components responsible for the timepiece’s precision are assembled in a rotating cage. OMEGA is the only watchmaker ever to have created a central Tourbillon. Its titanium cage rotates completely every 60 seconds, offsetting the effect of gravity on the performance of the watch.

Tourbillon technology, dazzling design

The Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition combines the complex Tourbillon technology with dazzling design elements.

The movement has a luxurious sun-brushed pearlescent finish; its bridges and mechanisms are hand polished. The rotor with its sapphire plate has been newly designed and is etched with the words “Limited Edition” and the watch’s individual serial number (out of 18). The Skeletonized Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is equipped with a Breguet balance spring.

The Central Tourbillon’s hands cannot be mounted on a central shaft in the conventional way. They are etched on to sapphire crystal disks and propelled by gearing at the peripheries of the disks. The result is dramatic – they appear to float freely above the movement.

One watchmaker’s masterpiece

To make a skeletonized version of the Central Tourbillon, the watchmaker begins by sawing away any non-essential material from the plates and bridges, then bevelling their edges. Unlike products from conventional workshops, each Tourbillon is the work of one watchmaker who spends up to 540 hours on the creation of the skeletonized version of the watch. This means that every Skeletonized Central Tourbillon is unique – no two are exactly alike.

Each watchmaker engraves his or her personal initials on the underside of the Tourbillon base to assure that all parts can be returned to their maker after they have been galvanized. When a Central Tourbillon is returned to OMEGA for servicing, it will be placed in the hands of the original watchmaker.

Only 18 pieces of this Skeletonized Tourbillon Coaxial Platinum Limited Edition will be produced.

An OMEGA Co-Axial movement

The outstanding chronometric performance of OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 2636 is enhanced by the state-of-the-industry escapement which has re-defined the way mechanical wristwatches are being made. The complex movement is assembled from 320 individual parts.

The remarkable Central Tourbillon calibre is housed in a platinum case presented with a black alligator bracelet.

While the Skeletonized Central Tourbillon watches are accurate – each one is a COSC-certified chronometer – they are particularly valued for their beauty and the complexity of the Tourbillon mechanism. Every component in the movement and case is produced exclusively for the Central Tourbillons.

The OMEGA Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the exquisite creation of a legendary watch brand working at the peak of its powers.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 in platinum

Three of the greatest complications in the most complete expression of the watchmaking arts and crafts practiced by Vacheron Constantin

The Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” belongs to the super-complication category as a worthy heir of Vacheron Constantin’s 250th anniversary masterpiece and as the ultimate demonstration of its unequaled skills. In fact, this incomparable timepiece harbours three of the most sophisticated complications in the universe of high-class watchmaking: the tourbillon, the perpetual calendar and the minute-repeater. Such a revelation of the quintessence of the watchmaker’s art provides the most accomplished expression of that art and its three score of associated crafts that are in daily practice at Vacheron Constantin.

Heir to the Tour de l’Ile

As the descendant of the Tour de l’Ile watch, the exceptional and much noticed flagship watch of the brand’s 250th anniversary in 2005, the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755”, took three years of development and thousands of hours of work to get right. It is the most complicated model in Vacheron Constantin’s current catalog. Its movement consists of no fewer than 602 parts fitted into a diameter of 33.30 mm only 7.90 mm high. This feat of true prowess also delivers more than 55 hours of running time, indicated through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

An unprecedented strike governor

Among its three complications, the minute-repeater is undoubtedly the one handled in the most original way, as if yet another demonstration that Vacheron Constantin remains one of the world’s most inventive manufacturers were strictly necessary. Caught between the desire to extend the frontiers of technical possibility and concern over the practical use of this multi-complication timepiece, Vacheron Constantin’s engineers and watchmakers came up with an original device to regulate the repeater’s chiming rate: a centripetal governor.
The role of this device is to steady the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs of a chiming watch to repeat the hours, quarters and minutes in a series of notes. Without a regulator, the spring-driven strike would come out in a rush of indiscernible notes.

The device developed by Vacheron Constantin goes further than the more traditional strike regulator – a noisy recoil escapement with a lever that is subject to wear.

During the development of the movement for the Tour de l’Ile anniversary watch of 2005, Vacheron Constantin’s engineers and watchmakers sought to replace the strike’s escapement governor with a totally silent system that would reduce wear. A centrifugal governor existed, essentially a flywheel with a pair of weights that moved away from the centre as it spun to slow the wheel by increasing its inertia. Nevertheless, true to the tradition of a brand whose motto recalls that it is always possible to do better, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers preferred to steer their choice towards a centripetal strike governor.

This device has two weights shaped so as to act as a brake on the governor’s rotating shaft, thus evening-out the energy released by the repeater’s spring. To achieve this, it uses the opposite centrifugal and centripetal forces. When the governor spins, the centrifugal force pivots one end of the weights outwards so that the other end acts as a brake on the central shaft to bring the rotation and the strike to a steady rate. This original and undoubtedly unique device is quite silent. The enthusiast can satisfy his curiosity while marveling at the spinning governor through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

In addition to its minute-repeater, the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” features a tourbillon, which, apart from its function of equalizing the effects of gravity on different positions of the balance, offers the visual attraction of an exposed mechanism that allows the beating heart of the watch to be observed. The perpetual calendar, which holds the future in its mechanical memory, tracks the meanderings of the Gregorian calendar without intervention apart from resetting the date every 400 years.

Patrimony Traditionnelle calibre 2755

Following the lore of the great complications

Vacheron Constantin not only entirely developed the Calibre 2755; it was also manufactured in its workshops, apart from standard parts. Each component is made with a margin so that the specialists who assemble and adjust them can remove material to introduce the right amount of shake. This procedure, which is in perfect keeping with the tenets governing the design and manufacture of the great horological complications, ensures the best possible performance and makes each movement unique. Once assembled, the Calibre 2755 beats at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations an hour and has a power reserve of about 55 hours. The level of its finish can be appreciated in the painstakingly chamfered edges of the bridge plates adorned with Côtes de Genève, the circular graining on the baseplate and the rounding-off of the tourbillon bridge. The high-status Hallmark of Geneva on the movement denotes its compliance with the twelve requirements of this independent and legally sanctioned label of workmanship, provenance, accuracy, durability and watchmaking proficiency.

Sound quality

This amazing calibre is fitted in a generously proportioned platinum case, 44 mm in diameter and designed to achieve the most remarkable quality of sound from the minute-repeater. The optimal tuning of the strike is made possible by the ingenious use of the blocks to which the chimes are attached. The rest of the exterior has also benefited from multiple refinements: dials available in silvered or slate finishes, and the folding clasp in 950 platinum with a half Maltese Cross. Noteworthy also is that the dial is shifted slightly off-centre to better display the tourbillon carriage.

Minute-repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar: bringing the three major complications together in a single timepiece remains a rare exercise in style and mastery. Its complexity severely limits the number of Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” platinum watches that can be produced.

Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck

Dr. Ludwig Oechslin’s concept focused on the system of Sun, Earth and Moon, concentrating on the scientifically accurate depiction of the moon phase, and the global influence of lunar and solar gravitation, resulting in the ebb and flow of the tides.

By combining the movement of two rotating discs in one display, the moon phase indication is so precise that more than 100,000 years will have to pass before it shows a full moon rather than a new moon (or vice versa). The Moonstruck simulates the rotation of the Moon around the Earth, as well as the apparent movement of the Sun around the globe. The latter is shown by another disc, rotating once every 24 hours. This permits the determination of the current moon phase in relation to any location in the world.

The Moonstruck also shows the global dynamics of tides that depend upon the gravitational effects of Moon and Sun. This revolutionary mechanical wristwatch illustrates the current tidal status and trend in relation to specific coastlines or oceans. The cumulative influences of the Moon and Sun which result in spring tides are also clearly shown.

The Moonstruck is a practical travel companion. It features a pointer calendar and a quick-setting device to adjust the hour hand forward and backward to any desired time zone by pressing the pushers plus and minus located at 2 and 4 o’clock.

The Moonstruck is a Ulysse Nardin in-house development. The manufacture caliber UN 106 features a silicium escapement and a hairspring made with the latest silicium technique.

The Moonstruck is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces in 18 ct red gold and 500 pieces in platinum.

Source: www.swisstime.ch

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Limited Edition

Preserving the best from each era and consistently capturing the signs of the times: such is the infinitely delicate responsibility of the designers, master-watchmakers, engineers and artisans of Vacheron Constantin, as they shape creations destined to generate emotions as enduring as those aroused by the discovery of the first pocket watch made by Jean-Marc Vacheron and dated circa 1755.

Throughout its exceptional history characterised by the exploration of countless different paths, in step with current trends and fashions but also guided by its own creative instinct, Vacheron Constantin has consistently distinguished itself – as its historical heritage vividly illustrates – by the extraordinary production of pocket watches that are exceptional in terms of their complications, decorations, shapes…

All of which means that today’s creations from Vacheron Constantin – worthy heirs to a proud legacy and tradition – continue to offer devotees of fine watches a deliberately classical style of contemporary elegance.

Yesterday, a symbol of both prestige and freedom

Since its origins in 1755, the year it was founded, the very soul of Vacheron Constantin has been permeated by the famous credo of its quest for excellence. The face will always reflect the soul, and the soul will always enshrine the timeless beauty of the face. This ageless secret is embodied in each creation by Vacheron Constantin.

The pocket watch was originally created to facilitate people’s daily lives. They no longer needed to listen to the church bells or to check the clock at home or in the office in order to know the time. For the very first time, a powerful symbol of prestige as well as freedom, a watch followed its owner every where and became a source of inspiration for watchmakers who were able to use their know-how in making ever smaller movements designed to facilitate their use.

In the same way, while initially considered as vulnerable, pocket watches only remained so until technological breakthroughs enhanced their protection. Today, they can be made as watertight, accurate and user-friendly as wristwatches. These days everyone has pockets, which was not necessarily the case in days gone by, so there is now nothing to prevent someone indulging in this delightful folly.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Limited Edition

Today, a fine object of contemporary dandyism

Vacheron Constantin is revisiting its past and the golden age of the pocket watch by presenting a model featuring a pure, classic and timeless design, belonging to the Collection Excellence Platine and thus necessarily rare because issued in an extremely limited edition.

While not succumbing to the current vintage craze, this pocket watch sets the tone for authentic contemporary dandyism. This spirit is embodied in the exquisitely refined gesture of removing from one’s pocket a splendidly understated model composed of the rarest and most precious of metals – platinum – distinguished by a density that admirably reflects its value. This sensual timepiece with its gentle curves is equipped with the new mechanical proprietary Calibre 4400, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. This epitome of elegance is clothed in a navy blue leather pouch that slides on a leather cord or an original platinum-linked chain, according to personal preference. 21st century elegance is no longer all about wearing time on your sleeve…

In a decidedly modern twist, the pocket watch is promoted to the status of a beautiful and iconic object in its own right. Whether nestling in a pocket, hung around the neck or placed as a table-clock on a desk, it represents a wish to look at time differently rather than simply wearing it on the wrist.

A completely different gesture… Holding a precious pocket watch in the palm of your hand, in order to take time to look at the time on its dial, has once again become an infinitely elegant gesture.

A keen awareness of passing time… A pocket watch is also a means of gaining another grip on time: it is held in the hand and thus offers another perception of time, involving a genuine feeling of reappropriating the moment in hand.

A multi-sensorial object…Released at last from the wrist and presented in a playful form thanks to its pouch and its leather cord or platinum chain, the pocket watch appeals to a variety of senses through its tactile, visual and auditory qualities.

Harmonious shapes creating a perfect balance between exterior and interior perfection.

For this first pocket watch in the Patrimony line, Vacheron Constantin once again offers devotees of fine watches the simplicity and elegance of a naturally classical style. The Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch created by Vacheron Constantin – issued in a limited edition of 50 individually numbered watches available exclusively in the Collection Excellence Platine – reflects a desire guided by the excellence of time-honoured expertise.

A voluptuously curved yet elegantly slender case in 950 platinum; a broad, beautifully restrained 950 platinum dial with a finely grained sandblasted finish reflecting the light with a gentle glow such as only platinum can offer; as well as 950 platinum baton-shaped hands gliding over delicately applied understated hour-markers: the exquisite metallic harmony of this creation contributes to its overall aesthetic equilibrium.

Inside this elegant exterior beats Calibre 4400, the new mechanical hand-wound mechanism representing the latest generation of proprietary movements and entirely designed, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin according to the highest standards of Geneva’s Grand watchmaking tradition. Its generous 28.50 mm diameter, magnified by the transparency of the sapphire crystal back, is perfectly suited to the equally liberally sized 43 mm case.

Thanks to its large barrel, this calibre driving the solitary hour and minute hands is endowed with around 65 hours’ power reserve, corresponding to three full days. And since Vacheron Constantin consistently matches such understated simplicity with exceptional finishing, Calibre 4400 proudly bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

The Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch Collection Excellence Platine thus embodies a philosophy that has remained unchanged through 250 years of history, experience and expertise: an obsession for perfection at each stage in the conception of a watch, and in each and every second of the life of the person it so faithfully accompanies.

Pure, rare, eternal… Platinum, the most precious of all metals

The obvious choice of precious metal when only the best or the most exclusive will do, platinum has inspired Vacheron Constantin to create its Collection Excellence Platine Limited Editions, in tribute to the distinctive properties and assets of this rare metal.

Long considered the exclusive preserve of royalty and statesmen, now joined by collectors and exceptional individuals with refined tastes, platinum conveys a definite aura of prestige that elicits a sense of kinship among a distinguished elite of discerning connoisseurs. For them, owning a Vacheron Constantin timepiece from the Collection Excellence Platine grants them privileged access to one of the world’s most exclusive circles.

Each new and necessarily limited-edition Vacheron Constantin model identified as belonging to the Collection Excellence Platine features a solid platinum dial discreetly bearing the inscription “PT950”, along with platinum hands, case and crown, and is housed within a grey lacquered ashwood presentation box.

Vacheron Constantin watchmakers first began using platinum in 1820, and the Geneva-based manufacture has since employed this precious metal in many of its most complex and original creations.

While 18-carat gold contains just 75% of the precious metal, platinum is 95% pure. Also much rarer than gold, it is found in an extremely small number of deposits worldwide, mainly in South Africa.

Its density and its weight are far superior to other metals and make it a more durable material. This quality means that a tiny scratch on a platinum model merely displaces the metal, engendering only a minimal loss of material. An object in platinum therefore retains its full value, as befits a token of eternity. Moreover, it is not subject to oxidation and is thus not affected by the passing of time, making it a perfect lifelong companion.

In addition to its resistance and its density, platinum boasts another remarkable quality: its extreme malleability. It is indeed malleable to the point where a single gram of metal can be drawn out to form a thread stretching almost two kilometres.

Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine specifically in order to highlight the distinctive qualities of this noble metal.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Limited Edition

Technical Specifications

Reference
Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch
Collection Excellence Platine
82028/000P-9490

Limited edition of 50 numbered pieces

Movement
4400, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy
Mechanical, manual-winding

Height of movement
2.8 mm

Diameter of movement
28.50 mm

Jewels
21 rubies

Frequency
28′800 vibrations/hours

Indications
Hours and minutes

Power-reserve
Approx. 65 hours

Case
Platinum 950
43.00 mm diameter

Water-resistance
3 Bar, equivalent to 30 meters

Dial
Platinum 950
Finishing sand-blasted
« PT 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock

Chain Delivered with an alligator leather cord
Length 30 cm

Platinum chain available on order
Length 30 cm

Invention Piece 1 White gold case

Honoring the first invention

The Invention Piece 1 embodies Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s wish to honor the Double Tourbillon 30° and to raise the bar yet another notch by opening up whole new vistas for their first major invention. Both the architecture of the movement and the display of information symbolize the four years of meticulous research that the Inventor Watchmakers have devoted to developing the new mechanism.

In this Invention Piece 1, the creative Greubel Forsey twosome has rearranged the volumes and surfaces of the timepiece according to a new technical and aesthetic structure. The latter places the Double Tourbillon 30° at the centre of a semi-circular hour and minute display, thereby visually reinforcing the link between the mechanism responsible for measuring the time and its “symbolic” indication.

Compared with the Double Tourbillon 30°, the movement driving the Invention Piece 1 has been profoundly modified to off-center the double cage by shifting it slightly to the left and distinctly higher. This position freed up space to place the object of the invention at the very center of the highly original hour and minute display. Two triangular indicators – a red one for the hours and a blue one for the minutes – enable the observer to follow the passing of time on the mechanism’s two concentric semi-circles.

To facilitate read-off, the 12-hour and 0-minute markers are aligned at the traditional 12 o’clock position.

Invention Piece 1 Red gold case

Magnificently evoking the mechanical genius of the Invention Piece 1, the various speeds of rotation of these different elements give an idea of the complexity of the mechanism: whereas the outer cage takes four minutes to perform a complete rotation and the inner cage just 60 seconds, the double hands turn in 24 hours for the hours display and two hours for minutes.

Around the tourbillon with its indicators, the absence of a dial reveals the frosted nickel silver bridges that are clearly visible on three distinct levels.
This opening provides a view of the concentric gearing serving to drive the hour and minute indicators. The off-centred small seconds and power-reserve displays are reminiscent of a miniature solar system.

While the case with its signature Greubel Forsey lugs is immediately recognizable, this Invention Piece 1 expresses its unique nature, reinforced by an unexpected detail: directly engraved on a plate appearing on the case-back, a unique message from the Inventor Watchmakers will forever accompany the owner of this exceptional timepiece.

388 parts contribute to the smooth running of the movement driving the Invention Piece 1, including 128 for the double cage that weighs just 1.17 grams.

The Invention Piece 1 is produced in a single edition comprising three versions of 11 watches each, a number chosen for its symbolic value representing the Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey partnership.

Invention Piece 1

Technical Specifications

Mechanical hand-wound movement, GF Calibre 02n

Off-centered Double Tourbillon 30°, Outer Tourbillon 4-minute rotation indicator, Inner Tourbillon 60-second rotation indicator, hours and minutes display,
seconds display, power-reserve indicator. Patented DT30° mechanism

Unique edition of 33 pieces

Movement
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 36.4 mm
Thickness: 12.72 mm

Number of parts
Complete movement: 388 parts
Tourbillon cage: 128 parts
Weight of the cage: 1.17 g

Number of jewels
38
Olive-domed jewels in gold chatons

Power reserve
72 hours

Barrels
Series-coupled fast-rotating double barrel (1 turn in 3.2 hours), equipped with a slip-spring to avoid excessive tension

Balance wheel
Free sprung balance with white gold mean-time screws (10.7 mm diameter)

Frequency
21’600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring
Phillips terminal curve
Geneva-style stud

Main Plates
Spotted and frosted nickel silver

Bridges
Frosted and gold-finished nickel silver
“Message from the Inventor Watchmakers” text in relief on a gold plate

Gearing
Involute circle profile
Conical gearing with corrected profile

Inner Tourbillon
Inclined at a 30° angle, 1 rotation per minute

Outer Tourbillon
1 rotation in 4 minutes
Hand-bevelled and open-worked cage pillars
Solid gold counterweight plate

Displays
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
72-hour power reserve on a sector

Habillage
Case
In gold or platinum with convex sapphire crystal, 3 versions in series of 11 each
Transparent back with convex sapphire crystal
Raised engraving of the name of the Invention on a hand-punched background
Gold security screws
Hand-engraved individual number

Case dimensions
Diameter: 43.5 mm
Thickness: 16.64 mm

Water resistance of the case
3 ATM – 30 m – 100 ft

Crown
Gold with engraved and black lacquered GF logo

Hands
Hours (red triangle) and minutes (blue triangle)
Small seconds
Power-reserve pointers in flame-blued steel

Strap
Hand-sewn black or brown alligator leather with gold folding clasp, hand-embossed with the Greubel Forsey initials

LANGE ZEITWERK, white gold, dial black, time bridge made of untreated German silver. Manually wound, jumping hours and minutes, small seconds hand with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator. Lange manufacture calibre L043.1 with constant-force escapement.

With a new timepiece concept, A. Lange & Söhne ventures a bold step forward Often, it is a new face that ushers in new times. That was the case after the rift in Europe had healed and the LANGE 1 paved the way for the comeback of A. Lange & Söhne. Fifteen years ago, it enriched the realm of horology with a fundamentally new concept and unprecedented technical finesse. As a design icon, it has long conquered its place at the pinnacle of timelessness. Now, with a mechanical, precisely jumping hour and minute indication of singular clarity, Lange presents another milestone. So yet again, a new face ushers in the next era in timekeeping. Its name: LANGE ZEITWERK.

“I shut my eyes in order to see” – the creative maxim of famous French painter Paul Gauguin was adopted by Lange’s calibre engineers and designers as they resolved to explore uncharted territory and, from an unbiased viewpoint, devise a watch that would be evolutionary and progressive in every respect. Ultimately, progress is always a result of curiosity. The question at Lange was: “Can the principles of a mechanical watch and a modern time indication format be persuasively combined?” The answer is the first mechanical wristwatch with a truly eloquent jumping numeral display. It is a watch that reinterprets time in an era of change. It not only endows time with a new face but also defines a new direction in watchmaking. It is a timepiece that embodies the spirit of time and simultaneously transcends it. Indeed, it is a watch that lets its owner experience a totally new sense of time.

LANGE ZEITWERK

A fresh design concept underscores the paradigm shift: The German-silver time bridge unfolds its wings across the entire width of the dial to prominently frame the large numerals of the laterally aligned windows that present the hours and minutes. It extends down to encircle the subsidiary seconds dial as well, uniting all three levels of time measurement in a harmonious setting. With its easy-to-grip bevelled flutes, the knurled crown points up and away, predicting an upswing movement. And in the upper third of the dial, the continuous power-reserve indicator reliably tells the owner when it is time to re-energise the movement.

With its emblematic name, the LANGE ZEITWERK is a watch that stands for uncompromising clarity. Thanks to the unparalleled size of its numerals, it tells the current time at even a cursory glance. With a whispered click and within fractions of a second, the minute display advances step by step until the watch initiates the big jump at the top of the hour. At this point, all three numeral discs switch forward simultaneously and instantaneously by exactly one unit. Here, timekeeping is elevated to the status of an event. The perfect moment for the showdown is at 11:59 – “high noon” in a widescreen format. The seconds hand embarks on its leisurely trajectory along the periphery of the subsidiary dial. Time seems to slow down as its course is deliberately observed. Thirty seconds to go. Mounting suspense. Then: ten … three, two, one – click – 12:00. One small step for a watch, but a giant leap for horology.

Beneath the extraordinary face, an equally revolutionary movement with a diameter of 33.6 millimetres fully occupies the space inside the 41.9-millimetre gold or platinum case.

LANGE ZEITWERK, platinum, dial rhodié, time bridge made of untreated German silver.

The significant amount of energy required to simultaneously advance all three numeral discs once every hour is delivered by a newly developed barrel with an extra-strong mainspring. Its patented design literally turns the venerable wind/unwind principle upside down. Thus, the mainspring barrel bearing with the higher friction rating is involved when the watch is being wound, but the barrel wheel always turns in the minimised-friction bearing as the mainspring gradually relaxes. This makes more torque available for powering the watch as well as the ensemble of discs with the hour and minute numerals.

A constant-force escapement, also patented, between the barrel wheel and the balance acts as a pacemaker for the jumping advance of the hours and minutes – in its compactness, the mechanism is quite likely unprecedented. The forces that occur when the numeral discs are accelerated and braked are far beyond the magnitude normally encountered in a movement. To absorb them, a fly governor was integrated in the mechanism. As it rotates, its vanes must displace air like a fan; it is this resistance that dissipates much of the energy and assures gentle switching.

At the same time, the constant-force escapement makes an important contribution to stabilising the rate of the movement: across the entire 36-hour autonomy period, it drives the balance with nearly uniform power, regardless of the state of wind of the mainspring and unaffected by the energy-consuming switching cycles that take place in one-minute intervals. Incidentally, a balance wheel with eccentric poising weights and a hairspring manufactured in-house constitute the high-precision beat controller.

LANGE ZEITWERK, yellow gold, dial champagne, time bridge made of untreated German silver.

As progressive as this watch with the “A. Lange & Söhne” signature may be, it remains a staunch advocate of classic horological values. A glance through the sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the lavishly decorated L043.1 manufacture calibre that in addition to all its technical novelties of course also features a three-quarter plate, a hand-engraved balance cock, and screwed gold chatons – each element is an endearingly familiar and regal asset of every Lange watch.

THE OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL MOONWATCH APOLLO 11 “40TH ANNIVERSARY” LIMITED EDITION

Two OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition watches celebrate the adventure: one in stainless steel and sterling silver (7,969 pieces); the other in platinum and 18 Ct yellow gold (69 pieces).

The stainless steel Limited Edition

The distinctive timepieces are powered by OMEGA’s calibre 1861, which shares its lineage with the calibre 321 used in the original Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. The stainless steel casebody is delivered with a stainless steel bracelet which has been upgraded to include OMEGA’s patented screw and pin system.

The black dial also recalls that of the Moon Watch but has some key differences. The small seconds counter (sub-dial) is a medallion which features an adaptation of Apollo 11’s famous mission patch: an eagle descends to the lunar surface with an olive branch representing peace in its claws. In the distance, far above the horizon, the earth is visible. The patch, interestingly, was designed by Michael Collins who remained in the Apollo 11 capsule as Command Module Pilot while his colleagues Armstrong and Aldrin were in the Lunar Module and on the moon.

The watch’s hour, minute and the red-tipped chronograph seconds hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. The minute and hour chronograph counter hands are white and there is a brushed, rhodium-plated small seconds hand in attractive relief to the slightly recessed medallion on the counter.

THE OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL MOONWATCH APOLLO 11 “40TH ANNIVERSARY” LIMITED EDITION

One small step

Below the words “OMEGA Speedmaster PROFESSIONAL” on the dial, the legend 02:56 GMT – the exact time that Neil Armstrong made his “one small step” onto the moon – is displayed in red.

The 40th Anniversary Limited Edition’s dial is protected by Hesalite, the same robust, shatter-proof acrylic crystal found on the original Moon Watch. Hesalite is ideally suited for use in space – there is no chance that it can break apart and send potentially dangerous fragments into the low-gravity environment. A small, distinctive OMEGA logo has been etched evocatively inside the Hesalite crystal.

The Apollo 11 “Eagle” mission patch is stamped on the caseback along with the words, “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON”, the limited edition number (0000/7969), and “July 21, 1969”, the date Armstrong and Aldrin first stepped onto the moon’s surface at 02:56, the time which is printed on the dial.

The OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition is delivered in a black presentation box which also includes a 42 mm sterling silver medal (the same diameter as the watch) featuring an engraving of the mission patch on one side with the words “APOLLO 11, 40th ANNIVERSARY”. On the reverse side, the medal is engraved, “THE EAGLE HAS LANDED”; “LAUNCHED JULY 16 1969”; “LANDED JULY 20, 1969”; and “RETURNED, JULY 24, 1969” along with OMEGA’s name and logo. Also in the presentation box is a certificate of authenticity and an envelope containing a black polishing cloth printed with information commemorating the historic space flight.

The platinum Limited Edition

A very limited release with unlimited luxury
A platinum version of the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” watch is also being released in an edition limited to 69 pieces. The casebody and screw and pin bracelet are made of platinum and the medallion on the small seconds counter is made of 18 Ct yellow gold as is the small seconds hand. The hour and minute hands as well as the 30 minute and 12 hour counter hands are made of platinum.

This elegant version of the watch is also delivered with a 42 mm 18 Ct yellow gold medal, in a limited and numbered edition, with the mission patch engraved on one side along with the words “APOLLO 11, 40th ANNIVERSARY”. As with the sterling silver medal included with the stainless steel watch, the reverse side features the engraved legend: “THE EAGLE HAS LANDED”; “LAUNCHED JULY 16 1969”; “LANDED JULY 20, 1969”; and “RETURNED, JULY 24, 1969” along with OMEGA’s name and logo.

The caseback features the mission patch in 18 Ct gold with the words “Apollo 11 40th Anniversary”. Around the platinum outer ring of the caseback appear the words, “The first Watch Worn on the Moon”, “PT950” – a reference to the watch’s platinum content, and “July 21, 1969”, the date that Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface.

Like the stainless steel watch, the platinum version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” features the shatterproof Hesalite crystal and the OMEGA calibre 1861 movement.

A subtle reminder on the small medallion on the dial indicates just how special this watch is: the limited edition number (00/69) is engraved at the base of the small mission patch on the dial.

The platinum Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition are delivered in a striking wooden case with elegant ornamental marquetry. The limited edition number (00/69) is embossed on the top cover of the case along with the Apollo 11 mission patch. The steel feet are engraved with “1969”, the year the Apollo 11 mission took place and “2009”, the year the world commemorated its 40th anniversary and the year the watch was produced. The case also includes a certificate of authenticity.

These exquisite timepieces will initially be available exclusively at the OMEGA Boutique on Fifth Avenue in New York City when it opens later this year.

The long time relationship of Omega and NASA

OMEGA’s historic role

Centuries from now, historians will continue to look back in wonder at the Apollo 11 mission. For the first time ever, human beings had left Earth, walked on another celestial body, and returned safely home. OMEGA will always be proud of the role it played in the greatest scientific adventure of all time.

New OMEGA Boutique in New York on Fifth Avenue

New York (USA) – Monday 06 April 2009
On April 4th, OMEGA comes to New York City. Its new flagship store at 711 Fifth will be the 51st OMEGA Boutique. The company’s entire product palette will be on offer.

The flagship store is an important part of OMEGA’s retail strategy. In December of 2000, Nicolas Hayek, the Chairman of the Swatch Group, made a bold announcement at the grand opening of the first OMEGA Boutique in Zurich. OMEGA’s ambitious goal, he said, was to extend the corporate boutique network to include 50 retail shops devoted exclusively to OMEGA products within ten years. OMEGA met that target in 2008.

A piece of history – JFK’s inaugural watch

On display will be the OMEGA Ultra-Thin watch, which was worn by John F. Kennedy during his inaugural address in January of 1961. The watch now belongs to the OMEGA Museum at the company’s headquarters in Biel, Switzerland. Stephen Urquhart, the president of OMEGA, pointed out, “Given the watch’s history and provenance, it is an ideal piece to share with the visitors to our New York City Boutique It was on President Kennedy’s wrist when he urged Americans to ‘ask not what your country can do for you but what you can do for your country.’ We’re pleased to have this opportunity to share it with our American friends.”

New OMEGA Boutique in New York on Fifth Avenue

A platinum Moonwatch – available exclusively in New York City

It was also President Kennedy who set the goal for Americans to land a man on the Moon and return him safely before the end of the 1960s. When the Apollo 11 Lunar Module landed on the Moon’s surface in July of 1969, the astronauts were wearing OMEGA Speedmaster watches (as has every NASA astronaut since 1963’s Mercury Faith 7 mission). On July 21st, 1969, the Moonwatch was born.
This year, to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the first lunar landing, OMEGA is releasing limited editions of the Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Moonwatch in stainless steel (7,969 pieces) and platinum (69 pieces).

The platinum version of the watch, which features an 18 Ct gold Apollo 11 patch on the caseback with a reduced version below the small seconds hand on the dial, will initially be available exclusively at the OMEGA Boutique in New York City.

Inside the OMEGA Boutique

When visitors enter the OMEGA Boutique, they will be warmly greeted by a staff whose members are specialists in the 161-year-old watchmaker’s product line. Display and sales areas are on each side of the ground floor towards the front of the store.

There is also an enclosed area where VIP guests can view the products undisturbed and at an unhurried pace.

Beyond the sales areas are special displays with showcases featuring OMEGA’s brand ambassadors on one side of the hall and selections from the Fine Jewellery and Fine Leather collections on the other. Many of these products are available exclusively at OMEGA Boutiques. There are also presentations dedicated to special launches and to seasonal products.

New OMEGA Boutique in New York on Fifth Avenue

Expert after-sales service

At the back of the shop, a staircase leads to the second floor where the after-sales service department is located. Here it is possible to receive expert consultation and warranty servicing on all OMEGA products.

The members of the specially-trained staff at OMEGA’s Boutique in New York City are enthusiastic about sharing their unparalleled knowledge of one of the world’s most respected watch brands.

The façade

The concept for the OMEGA Boutique was created by Kazuo Adachi of design Fresco designed by Adachi and his colleague Hiroshi Yamashita. The façade has been conceived around the themes of the sun, water, the earth and, of course, time. Brilliant lighting illuminating the products in the show window represents the sun’s energetic light rays.

A stroke pattern above the displays casts shadows and reflects light – a perfect depiction of clouds, which gather water to generate the rain. Vertical tracks express rainfall. The rain, in turn, symbolizes time which is never still and which never returns in exactly the same form.

Finally, below the displays, chiselled and silvered glass represents an exposed cross section of the earth which conveys a history of time.