The new Hublot Unico movement

UNICO movement

The integration of the various production stages should give the Manufacture even greater autonomy. The UNICO movement, a chronograph developed entirely by Hublot’s Research & Development department, is now in its “functional prototype” stage until the end of 2009. It will eventually be housed inside the case of the King Power, the latest model to be launched by the brand this year. The workshop is currently producing bridges, main plates and assorted steel components, which will be assembled by fifteen or so new employees to be specially appointed in January for production of the UNICO. The aim is to produce 2,000 UNICO movements in 2010, and close to 20,000 in the medium term.

A special feature of this flyback chronograph is the position of its mechanism and the famous “column wheel” on the side of the dial. However, one of its main innovations is the removable platform escapement, on which the watch owner’s initials can be engraved by special request!

The new Hublot Unico movement

A clever yet subtle feature allowing easier servicing and maintenance, and offering the owner the option to personalize the timepiece. The escapement (escape wheel and pallet fork) is made from silicon, a light, durable and technologically advanced material which resists wear and guarantees more accurate operation.

Movement with column-wheel chronograph mechanism integrated on the dial side, bicompax, 2 push-pieces, flyback, double horizontal clutch, no jumper in the chronograph mechanism, semi-instant calendar, removable platform escapement, second stop device.

Fitting diameter
Ø 30.00 [mm]

Total diameter
Ø 30.40 [mm]

Total height
8.05 [mm]

Display
Hours, minutes, seconds at 9 o’clock
60-second and 60-minute chronograph
Date aperture

Number of jewels
36

Power reserve
> 70 hours (~ 72 hours)

The new Hublot Unico movement

Adjustment
On removable platform escapement
4 [Hz], Swiss lever escapement
Silicon pallet fork and escape wheel
Cross-through balance bridge, height adjustable
Fine rate adjustment

Self-winding
Ceramic ball bearing
2-way winding
Pellaton type

The new Hublot Unico

Time setting mechanism
Classic, 3 positions
- Hand wound
- Quick calendar correction
- Time setting

Total number of pieces
330

GÉRALD GENTA Octo Tourbillon Sunray

As an archetype of the modern approach to watchmaking introduced by Gérald Genta, the Octo (for octagonal) case continues to draw on its good fortune in being born under the sign of the figure 8, regarded as a lucky number in China. Its design celebrates an architectural design placing function in the service of aesthetics by giving pride of place to geometrical shapes, pared-down surfaces and visible frame structures. On this gleaming “solar” model, the additional studs powerfully reinforce the functional nature of the bezel.

The Octo Tourbillon Sunray celebrates the return of yellow gold for Gérald Genta. Its case glows with the radiance of the brilliant-polished middle. It wears a singularly contrasting bezel in satin-brushed gold encrusted with gold studs like a halo. Looking down from its zenith, the “sun watch” focuses the piercing gaze of its hawk’s eye set at the heart of the beaded crown. This stone symbolizing an open-minded attitude toward new ideas is a fitting emblem indeed for Gérald Genta!

The dial composed of two superimposed gold plates affords the sight of an unexpected solar eclipse. Above the black-lacquered base with its minute track hovers an ingeniously cloisonné-worked depiction of the daystar. The luminosity of yellow gold bursts forth from the shade of the black lacquer on four depth-engraved triangles, on the raised retrograde hour numerals, and on the dauphine-shaped hands. Revealed through an octagonal opening at 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is distinguished by a sapphire bridge that makes it seem to be of the flying kind. An anti ultraviolet-ray treatment slows down the drying of oils and thereby prolongs the longevity of the legendary mechanism.

GÉRALD GENTA Octo Tourbillon Sunray

The tourbillon is a long-established specialty for Gérald Genta, which was one of the first brands to produce a self-winding tourbillon mechanism in 1990. The one powering the Octo Tourbillon Sunray comprises a perfectly integrated retrograde hour display and boasts a substantial 64-hour power reserve. It is also remarkable in terms of its slender construction (5.9 mm thick). Developed and crafted within the Manufacture, the movement is enriched by signature fine watchmaking finishes such as circular graining, beveling, polishing, circular satin brushing or hand-drawn flanks. In an ultimate touch of class, it is clothed in the classic Gérald Genta “old gold”, the “Potter finish” created by the brand in tribute to the colour of antique movements.

The Octo Tourbillon in yellow gold comes on a deep black creased crocodile leather strap. Prospective owners may choose the pink gold version or the “tri-composite” model with a platinum case middle, tantalum bezel and white gold studs. The latter is further enlivened by a black and red lacquered white gold dial and matching red strap.

GÉRALD GENTA Octo Tourbillon Sunray movement

The new Speake-Marin in-house movement SM2

Over view
The over all design of the movement is based on the philosophy of precision and longevity. The movement is large and unique in style, it retains the S-M signature winding rotor and returns to ‘the foundation watch’ style of circular grained untreated German silver bridges.

One of the approaches in designing the movement was to make a watchmakers watch, meaning that the priority was to make it in such a way that would facilitate the
assembly and adjustment for the watchmaker to be able to affect his skill with ease and precision. Examples of this are shown by the double micro regulation for the beat error and timing of the balance, as well as the milling around the balance gaining maximum access to view the balance for adjustment. In addition windows are milled into the sides of the movement to allow maximum visibility. The escape wheel bridge can be removed independently of the main train bridge to allow the escapement to be assembled separately of the rest of the watch.

The SM2 will replace our existing FW2012 automatic movement during 2009.

The MARIN-1 is the first Speake-Marin model to integrate the SM2 caliber.

Technical specifications

Diameter 32.6mm
Height 6.2mm

Functions Automatic mechanical movement, hour, minute, center seconds

Characteristics
Frequency 21600 v/h
Shock protection incabloc & kiff
Power reserve 72 hours
Single barrel
Number of jewels 29
Total number of components 211
Weight of balance 0118gr inertia 25mg.cm2
Material of bridges/main plate German silver
Chronometer balance with masslots and breguet over coil.

Finish/assembly
Movement assembled by hand
All bridges, levers and mainplate finished by hand, circling, spotting and polished.
The rotor wheel angles are hand finished then the surface is mirror finished.
All pivots burnished
Breguet overcoil lifted by hand

Peter Speake-Marin

About Peter Speake-Marin

Born in 1968 in the county of Essex in England. First studying horology London’s Hackney Technical College and then later at the prestigious Swiss watch making school WOSTEP in Neuchatel. This was followed by seven years in the heart of London’s Piccadilly, where he worked as a specialist in the restoration of highly collectible antique watches.

This period gave him the opportunity to be in intimate contact handling and restoring literally hundreds of horological treasures from the greatest watchmakers and houses in history. The inspiration and knowledge gleaned from those treasures fired his desire to work and further his knowledge of watchmaking to an even higher level.

Returning to Switzerland in 1996 to work on modern watches he specialized in complications both building them and in their development.

In 2000, after 15 years of study he embarked on his personal dream; an independent workshop in which he could design and build his own watches.

The Watch Workshop is the name of the company founded by Peter Speake-Marin to realize his ideas in watchmaking..

Source: www.speake-marin.com

The Oris Rectangular "Bob Dylan" Limited Edition - © Oris

A Tribute to Bob Dylan

Oris Press Release – Hölstein, 30th January 2009 – In one of his greatest hits, Bob Dylan sings that “The Times They Are A-Changin” but the great man himself remains constant. In the sixties he came to prominence as the unofficial voice of the counterculture and has since become one of the most influential and successful artists of all time. As an international star in the worlds of folk and rock music he sang his way into the hearts of a generation with his distinctive voice and poetic lyrics. He is quite simply a multitalented living legend: singer-songwriter, poet, musician, author and painter.

As a tribute to Bob Dylan, Oris has created a special edition Rectangular model, limited to just 3000 pieces worldwide. The stainless steel cased watches carry Bob Dylan’s signature on the finely patterned dial. His portrait is engraved on the case back along with the limited edition number of the watch. A small glass window offers a glimpse of the complex mechanical movement with the famous Oris red rotor.

Bob Dylan has experimented in more different fields than any other artist but has always returned to his musical roots. The watch design reflects this in its use of slick modern proportions, which make it stylish rather than fashionable. This exclusive Oris limited edition comes in a presentation box set with a Hohner Marine Band harmonica – the instrument for which Dylan is best known.

The Oris Rectangular “Bob Dylan” Limited Edition: an exception to all the rules. Solo and unplugged.

Oris Rectangular Bob Dylan Limited Edition - © Oris

“Oris Rectangular Bob Dylan Limited Edition”
37.80mm x 39.00 mm
Ref. 733 7618 40 84 LS
• Automatic mechanical movement, centralised hour, minute and second displays. Date at 6 o’clock.
• Black patterned dial with applied numerals, nickel hands with luminous inlay.
• Multi piece stainless steel case, case back fixed with four screws. Special case back engraving, and small glass window.
• Sapphire glass domed on both sides and with inner and outer antireflective coating.
• Stainless steel crown
• Black leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp
• Water resistant to 3 bar

BIG BANG SAINT-VALENTIN - © Hublot Geneve

Hublot Geneve Press Release, Valentine Day 2009 – Like a gem, a bouquet of flowers in full bloom, a delicate scent, or a romantic story! This is a Big Bang that combines the full range of pink tones: the gold case and the vivid pink of the alligator strap are illuminated by the translucent sparkle of the sapphires set on the bezel. An elegant and feminine chronograph, radiant and even mischievous.

Technical Specifications

Case – “Big Bang” 41 mm diameter in 5N gold
Bezel – 5N gold with 6 titanium H-shaped screws, sunken, polished and blocked, set with 48 pink sapphire baguettes (approx. 2.23 cts)
Crystal – Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection interior treatment
Bezel lug – Pink composite resin
Lateral inserts – Pink composite resin
Back – 5N gold with sapphire crystal, anti-reflection interior treatment
Crown – 5N gold with pink rubber insert
Push-pieces – 5N gold, rectangular with pink rubber insert
Screws – Titanium
Water-resistance – 100 m or 10 ATM

Dial – White with satin-finished 5N gold-plated figures and appliqué index markers

Hands – Faceted, diamond-polished, 5N gold plated, with white luminescent feature

Movement Mechanical chronograph with automatic winding, Hublot HUB41 calibre
Number of components – 278
Rubies – 37
Bridges – Polished, satin-finished with chamfered edges
Screws – Black PVD
Calendar – Trapezoid aperture at 4:30
Oscillating weight – Tungsten carbide with dimpled surface coated with black PVD
Bottom plate – Sand-blasted rhodium plated
Barrel – With reinforced spring
Escapement – Glucydur balance spring
Power reserve – 42 hours

Strap – Adjustable pink alligator

Clasp – 5N gold and black PVD deployant clasp

KING POWER FOUDROYANTE ALL BLACK - © Hublot Geneve

Case - “King Power” diameter 48 mm in microblasted black ceramic
Bezel – Black microblasted ceramic with black rubber moulding, with 6 black PVD-coated titanium raised H-shaped screws
Crystal - Sapphire crystal with interior/exterior anti-reflection treatment
Bezel lug – Black composite resin
Lateral inserts – Black composite resin
Back – Black microblasted ceramic

Crown – Black PVD titanium with black rubber insert
Push-pieces – Black PVD titanium with black rubber insert
Water-resistance – 100 m or 10 ATM
Dial – Multi pieces with matt black microblasted additional counters and flange; appliqué markers with black nickel treatment; black SuperLuminova™ transfers
Hands – Brilliant black nickel chronograph hand; brilliant black nickel with black SuperLuminova™ hours and minutes hands; brilliant black nickel with black SuperLuminova™ split-seconds hand; brilliant black nickel with black SuperLuminova™ foudroyante hand

Movement – Self-winding mechanical split-seconds foudroyante chronograph, Hublot HUB44 RTF calibre developed with La Joux-Perret
Bridges – Polished, satin-finish with chamfered edges
Screws – Black PVD
Oscillating weight – Tungsten carbide with dimpled surface coated with black PVD
Bottom plate – Sand-blasted; rhodium-plated
Barrel – With reinforced spring
Escapement – Glucydur balance spring
Power reserve – 42 hours

Strap – Adjustable jointed black rubber

Clasp – Black microblasted ceramic and black PVD steel deployant clasp
Limited Edition – 500 numbered pieces 01/500 – 500/500

Piaget Emperador coussin moon phase © Piaget

Piaget, the manufacturer of Haute Horlogerie, has unveiled a new mechanic movement, designed and developed in house, the calibre 860P, included in the new Piaget Emperador coussin.

Piaget Emperador coussin moon phase
Model XL
18-carat white gold case
Slate-grey dial, 18-carat white gold applied hour-markers, sunburst satin-brushed silver-coloured centre, large 18-carat white gold moon at 6 o’clock.
Sapphire crystal case-back
Manufacture Piaget 860P mechanical self-winding movement

Movement thickness: 6.1 mm

Number of jewels: 25

Cadence: 21,600 vph

Approximately 72-hour power reserve

Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges , balance with screws, blued screws
18-carat white gold folding clasp
Black alligator leather strap

Ref G0A34021

Hallmark of Geneva

Only mechanical watches assembled and adjusted on the territory of the Canton of Geneva – Switzerland – may be entered. Each movement must furthermore bear its own individual production number.

1.The quality of all parts and components of the movement, including those used for auxiliary mechanisms, must comply with the standards prescribed by the Office for the optional inspection of Genevan watches. Steel parts must display polished angles and their sides parallel file strokes, their visible faces must be smoothed and polished, screw heads must be polished or circular grained (with their rim and slot beveled).

2.All movements must be fitted on the going train and on the escapement with ruby jewels with polished hole. On the bridge side, jewels must be semi-mirror polished and their sinks polished. A centre-wheel jewel in the main plate is not required.

3.The balance spring must be secured by a sliding stud cap with round head and neck. Mobile stud-holders are accepted.

4.Fitted or split indexes (regulators) with a fastening system are accepted, save on extra-thin movements where the system is not mandatory.

5.Regulating systems featuring a balance wheel with variable radius of rotation are accepted provided they comply with the conditions set out in Article 3, paragraph 1.

6.Geartrain wheels must be bevelled on their upper and lower sides and their sinks polished. For wheels 0.15 mm thick or less, bevelling on the bridge side only is tolerated.

7.Pinion shanks and faces must be polished.

8.A lightweight escape wheel is mandatory: no more than 0.16 mm thick for larger sizes or 0.13 mm for wheels less than 18 mm across; locking faces must be polished.

9.The lever’s angle of travel must be contained by solid bankings, to the exclusion of pins or studs.

10.Movements fitted with shock absorbers are accepted.

11.The ratchet and transmission (crown) wheel must be finished in conformity with prescribed models.

12.Wire springs are prohibited.

A guarantee of provenance
A guarantee of exacting precision
A guarantee of durableness
A guarantee of horological expertness

Logo Hallmark of Geneva

Introduced in the 19th century by an industry long threatened with the scourge of counterfeiting, the Hallmark of Geneva is now regarded as a true horological philosophy and the symbol of horological perfection. Given legal status in 1886, the Hallmark of Geneva is probably one of the oldest professional hallmarks in any industry, recognised as a label of origin, but especially as a guarantee of superior quality. But while it is highly prized in the world of Haute Horlogerie, not just anyone who wants to can join the select circle of manufactories able to obtain it.

A very select club of manufactories

Comprising twelve permanent criteria – modified over the years, of course, to meet various changes in the industry, the Hallmark of Geneva is only given to movements that satisfy all twelve.

What is more, it is only granted to movements assembled and regulated within the canton of Geneva and by watch Manufactures whose head office is there. The number of companies able to display it on their prestige series can be counted on the fingers of one hand, making a sort of exclusive club to which Vacheron Constantin is proud to belong.

Besides the technical and aesthetic obligations required by the law, the Hallmark of Geneva embraces a horological philosophy that makes no concessions to the quality of either the movement as a whole or to its individual parts. It is guided by a certain spirit governing the production of movements from the design stage, because these require a number of manual operations in the purest tradition of the professionals who created this hallmark more than a century ago. In the area of finishing, for example, decorating parts with Côtes de Genève, circular-graining and chamfering and the drawing of steel are operations carried out by hand.

Geneva Seal © Vacheron Constantin

Safeguarding the spirit of true craftsmanship

Although there is no intention of slowing down progress in the area of watchmaking expertise, the Hallmark of Geneva continues to emphasise the actual craftsmanship at the heart of its founding principles, even though its criteria are periodically modified to meet industrial changes in the sector. Manual work will therefore remain central in the activities of Manufactures that regard the Hallmark of Geneva as the pinnacle of the art of watchmaking.

In practice, the Hallmark of Geneva Commission – which is totally independent, reinforcing the value of this certification – has seven members appointed individually for four years by the cantonal government. For approval, each one of the movement’s 100 to sometimes more than 800 components, depending on the model, must first receive approval from the Commission. Once all the parts have been given the green light, the movement can be assembled and regulated for one final series of tests. The plates of all the watches in the relevant series are then authorised to receive the Hallmark.

Drawing Caliber 4400 © Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin, upgrading the Hallmark of Geneva in its production

Vacheron Constantin has always viewed the Hallmark of Geneva as an exclusive hallmark to be championed, respected and upgraded in the production of its watches. Since being granted its first Hallmark of Geneva in 1909, Vacheron Constantin has been one of the few manufactures to have worked within the demanding and satisfying parameters of this quality hallmark, which symbolises watchmaking excellence. Vacheron Constantin continues to develop its range of watches Hallmark of Geneva; the objective is to have all its mechanical movements certified.

As Vacheron Constantin has always aspired to perfection in the creation of its timepieces, the Hallmark of Geneva provides a standard enabling it to transcend its limits. As the Manufacture’s aim is to create timepieces with extremely refined lines and faultless movements, it has pushed the design and finishing of its watches to the very limit. This has led to close individual attention being given to every component and resulted in the highlighting of the movement’s gear-trains, more generous, finely hand-finished surfaces, and a balance of shapes worthy of the finest watchmaking tradition.

Far from yielding to the imperatives of productivity, Vacheron Constantin has always given priority to quality. From its R&D and design department to its assembly workshops to the finishing of its components, this spirit of true craftsmanship, supported by a solid industrial base, ensures that the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin will remain one of the worthiest representatives of the Hallmark of Geneva.