2010 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Collection: moon phase, complete calendar, column-wheel controlled flyback chronograph

A New Complete Calendar Moon Phase Flyback Chronograph

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Collection is home to the most rugged sports watches in all of Blancpain’s lines. For 2010 Blancpain expands the Fifty Fathoms domain of sport to embrace the complications of a moon phase and a complete calendar married with the traditional sport companion of a column-wheel controlled flyback chronograph.

This newest member of the Fifty Fathoms family, with its complicated 448-part movement, has been fitted with a host of Blancpain movement innovations. The moon phase complete calendar mechanism is drawn from the caliber F185 movement, offering the unique capability of risk-free setting of any indication regardless of the time of day or night. Other complete calendar moon phase mechanisms offered in the industry forbid setting of indications at certain times because of risk of damage to the delicate components of the calendar. Blancpain solved this problem with its unique design that frees the owner from worrying about whether it is safe to set the calendar indications. Setting itself is further facilitated by the incorporation of Blancpain’s patented under lug correctors that eliminate the need for adjusters on the sides of the case and which allow finger-tip setting in place of an adjusting tool.

The chronograph base is Blancpain’s classic vertical clutch column-wheel controlled flyback movement.

The stainless steel case is 45 mm in diameter and fitted with a blue colored sapphire unidirectional bezel and blue dial.

2010 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Collection: moon phase, complete calendar, column-wheel controlled flyback chronograph

Technical Specifications

Ref: 5066F-1140-52B

FIFTY FATHOMS, Complete Calendar Flyback Chronograph, moon phases, under-lug correctors, blue dial, one-way rotating bezel, self-winding

Caliber
66BF8

Thickness
7,50 mm

Diameter
32,00 mm

Power-reserve in hours
40

Jewels
37

Components
448

Case
Steel

Thickness
17,40 mm

Diameter
45,00 mm

Water-resistance
30 bar (The water-resistance value expressed in metres corresponds to overpressure expressed in bars. Each bar corresponds to a 10-metre water column.)

Sapphire crystal back
Yes

Interhorn space
23,00 mm

Jaquet Droz - The Eclipse

It is the light that catches every eye, the heavenly body that fires poetic dreams in the dark of night. The magic of the Moon inhabits one of the legendary Jaquet Droz models that the Manufacture has just reinvented.

The Eclipse is a real feat of watchmaking; it not only displays the day, month and year, but also the phases of the Moon which have fascinated astronomers, explorers and artists of all times and every culture. On the dial, a Moon with a smiling face inspired by 19th century engravings playfully appears and disappears behind a matt black disk that sharply offsets the brilliance of the dial. Evolving day after day, subtly changing with each new dawn, the Moon in all its forms watches over this exceptional timepiece.

This mechanical performance, together with the genuine visual spectacle, has been achieved with great aesthetic purity. Within the 43 mm red-gold case, an intensely black Grand Feu enameled dial welcomes 8 stars, inspired as much by the favorite number of the Manufacture as by the symbolism of the star that is so dear to Jaquet Droz.

LINDE WERDELIN Oktopus Moonphase Complication

With a titanium case and a rose gold bezel and details on the dial, the new Oktopus Moonphase has been designed in a classic yet innovative way to show seven phases of the moon from new to half and full. The moon phases are entirely made out of Super LumiNova enhancing the effect and placed along 4 and 8 o’clock to maximize dial legibility.

Based on a Frédéric Piguet automatic movement, the complication is built on the date function to also provide a countdown to the next full moon, read on the moonphase dial. “This allows us to simplify a complicated function like the moonphase and make it easier for the user”, says Morten Linde creative director and co-founder of LW. While encompassing the same case dimensions as the rest of the Oktopus models, the Moonphase bears a sapphire crystal case back, which reveals the skillfully crafted Frédéric Piguet movement and the rotor bearing the AG and LW logos. It has been tested to withstand the pressure of 888 meters and the integrated helium escape valve at 9 o’clock ensures the watch endures the pressure during resurface time.

“Linde Werdelin’s launch of its first complication is an important step for us. We are very pleased to continue our collaboration with Svend Andersen and also start using a Frédéric Piguet movement for our watches” says Jorn Werdelin managing director and co-founder of LW.

On the decision to have the moonphase complication on a divers’ watch, Morten says, “moonlight creates the perfect conditions for after-hours sports activities and particularly diving. More and more people these days enjoy sports under the full moon. This is one of the reasons why we wanted to produce a moonphase complication for our diver’s watch. One can plan their next diving trip by checking when the next full moon is going to be, then clip the Reef for a safe dive.”

Limited to 29 pieces, connoting to the days before the next full moon, the Oktopus Moonphase will be available for deliveries in the fall 2010 on LindeWerdelin.com or from any LW authorized retailer.

Technical Specifications

Limited to 29 pieces

Size
46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 14mm (h)

Movement
Automatic mechanical Frederic Piguet movement caliber 1150, Linde Werdelin & Andersen Genève personalized oscillator
72 hour power reserve / 28 jewels / 28,800 bpm
Moonphase complication by Svend Andersen with luminous photorealistic moon phases and moonphase countdown, manually adjustable by second crown position

Case
Titanium grade 5, microbille finish
3.00mm screw on case-back with sapphire crystal
Rose gold unidirectional turning bezel with 10 minute markings & Super LumiNova marker at 12 o’clock
3.8mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screw in crown with LW logo
Helium escape valve at 9 o’clock

Dial
Black matt dial
Arabic numerals rose gold plated applied indexes with Super LumiNova

Hands
Rose gold plated, diamond cut rhodium plated with applied Super LumiNova

Water Resistance
888 m/2913 ft

Strap
Black alligator strap with titanium ardillon buckle

US Retail Price
$21,700

Source: LindeWerdelin.com

BLANCPAIN Introduces a “Re-imagined” Villeret Moon Phase

Baselworld 2010 marks the 275th Anniversary for Blancpain and is the occasion for the debut of a new Villeret Collection. The first timepiece from this new series to be unveiled is a new complete calendar moon-phase model featuring a fully secure calendar mechanism, and under-lug correctors, fitted into a half-hunter red gold case.

This new Blancpain Villeret Collection distills aesthetics and complications that have been at Blancpain’s core since the early 1980s. The understatement and elegance that have always marked Blancpain’s Villeret models have been brought forward in a new way, backed by the technical advances achieved through Blancpain’s heavy investment in movement development over the past several years.

The complete calendar moon-phase has always been the signature complication for the Villeret Collection. This Blancpain’s exclusive in-house automatic calibre is fitted with a balance oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with an antimagnetic index assembly, and with two barrels guaranteeing it a 72-hour power reserve. Nearly as complex as a full perpetual calendar, this Villeret model features a revolutionary method for adjusting the indications without fear of movement damage, regardless of the time of day. To facilitate setting of the indications, Blancpain has equipped the new Villeret timepiece with its patented under-lug correctors. This not only leaves the sides of the watches with a remarkably pure finish, unmarred by the presence of adjusters, but also means that changes can be accomplished with one’s finger tips instead of requiring a dedicated tool.

For the first model of the new Villeret Collection, Blancpain has opted for a 40 mm red gold half-hunter case and a decorated opaline dial.

Source: www.blancpain.com

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar XL

A statement of principle: less is more. Minimalism. Modern design. Function takes on form, and color is transformed into a subtle range of grays. The PanoMaticLunar XL. The quintessential understatement.

The PanoMaticLunar XL presents the classic lines and look of the PanoMatic XL models in an understated, eloquent form. Set within the galvanized matt gray dial are the characteristic off-center hour/minute and subsidiary seconds dials, finely milled and galvanized in the same dark gray hue. The elegant moon phase display presents a shining silver moon and stars against a fine-grained silver sky.

Applied white gold Arabic numerals indicating hour 12 are framed by white gold hour markers and white gold hour, minute and seconds hands. Enhancing the minimalist design is the visually compelling panorama date display, whose white numerals on a dark gray ground present the date without the need for a double window. The 42mm stainless steel case offers both polished and satin-finished surfaces and is held securely in place by a finely-worked gray alligator strap.

At the heart of the new PanoMaticLunar XL is the Caliber 90-02 automatic movement. Its finely finished elements, the three-quarter plate, swan-neck fine adjustment, Glashütte ribbing and sunburst decoration, characteristic of the fine art of mechanical watch making at Glashütte Original, are clearly visible through a sapphire crystal case back.

Limited-Edition Chapter One by Maîtres du Temps

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS, Switzerland – The warm, rich color of the 5N red-gold case and matching hands blends in harmonious juxtaposition with the striking jet-black dial and rollers on this latest very limited-edition model in the exclusive Chapter One collection.

Developed by a collaboration of world-renowned master watchmakers, Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis and Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon.

The indication-rich dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock. The contrast of the elegantly sculpted red-gold hands against the raven-wing black of the dial provides clear legibility in a discreet, highly- refined setting. Stylish ergonomic correctors make adjusting the calendar indications a secret pleasure.

“Maîtres du Temps continues to diversify the Chapter One collection by offering limited-edition timepieces with sophisticated design and technical mastery. This latest red-gold edition provides another opportunity to present a timepiece with not only distinguished technical features, but with the warmth and fire of red gold adding to its appeal,” says Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.

The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s indications disguises the fact that Chapter One is an incredibly complex timepiece crafted from 662 finely finished and beautifully decorated components. From the innovative combination of complications in its movement to the majestic sweep of curves in its case, Chapter One stands as an enduring testament to the skill, patience, and dexterity of its world-class creators.

About Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps is a pantheon where teams of independent master watchmakers at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie collaborate to develop innovative, interesting, and exclusive timepieces.  Founded by Steven Holtzman and based in Switzerland, Maîtres du Temps crafts limited-series mechanical masterpieces, each the synthesis of the experience, art, and techniques of the masters who create it. For more information, please visit www.maitresdutemps.com.

Technical Specifications – C1T.55.2E.12-5

Manual-wind mechanical movement, one-minute tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, patented precise moon phase indication on roller

Displays
Central hands indicating hours and minutes
Central chronograph counterpoised second hand
60-minute counter at 12 o’clock
Retrograde date at 3 o’clock
Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock
One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock
Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock

Functions
- Two-position winding crown: pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the time
- Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown

Correctors
- Date corrector at 2 o’clock
- Day of the week corrector at 4 o’clock
- Moon phase corrector at 8 o’clock
- GMT corrector at 10 o’clock

Caliber SHC02
- Dimensions: 51 mm x 32 mm
- Number of components: 558
- Number of jewels: 58
- Power reserve: 60 hours
- Tourbillon rotation: 60 seconds
- Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)

Case
- 18K 5N red gold
- Number of components: 104
- Dimensions: 63 mm x 45 mm x 18 mm
- Sapphire crystals with double anti-reflective coating
- Display back: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- High polish and satin finishes on compound-curve surfaces
- Correctors with integrated locking system

Dial
- 18K gold
- Number of components: 7
- Multi-faceted and beveled
- Printed Roman numerals
- Engine-turned sun-ray guilloche
- Red counterpoised chronograph hand
- 18K red-gold sword-shaped hands for chronograph counter, hour, minute, date, and GMT

Rollers
Day barrel: anodized Anticorodal
Moon phase barrel: anodized Anticorodal inside a matte anodized cover with laser-pierced moon and stars
Window between day roller and tourbillon

Strap
Alligator strap with 18K 5N red-gold deployant buckle

Please note that specifications may change without notice.

MB&F Horological Machine No2-SV

MB&F presents Horological Machine No2-SV, featuring a room-with-a-view crystal-clear sapphire case with titanium back. With its totally transparent case, HM2-SV offers unprecedented visual access to the painstakingly hand-finished, 349-component engine powering the indications on its iconic twin dials.

Sapphire’s hardness is second only to diamond, which makes the whole top half of the case (the most exposed half) extremely scratch-resistant. This is a timepiece that will keep its good looks for a very, very long time.

While wristwatches have long featured synthetic sapphire crystals, its use in watch cases has been much more limited, and with good reason. Sapphire retains its strength at high temperatures, has zero porosity and only reacts with acids above 300°C. However, the very properties that make it so attractive as a potential case material also make it immensely difficult to work, requiring sophisticated diamond tools to machine, and then it needs to be very carefully polished to turn the naturally opaque surface transparent. The process would have been very difficult for even a plain plate of this size, but the complex, three-dimensional form required for HM2-SV, with its bevels, mounting holes, crystal cut-outs and gasket track, pushed the extreme limits of sapphire crystal technology way beyond what was thought possible.

Surprisingly, because it is largely unseen, the sapphire is a substantial 3.6mm thick. Thanks to anti-reflective treatment on both sides – in itself no small technological feat to uniformly apply – the case becomes virtually invisible and allows for full appreciation as the eye is drawn into appreciating a myriad of sublime nuances that are revealed in the intricate movement. Eight mounting bolts, traversing the sapphire plate like pillars and passing through the bright blue gasket sealing the two case halves adds to the architectural nature of the three-dimensional case. The eye-catching blue of the gasket is echoed in the hour disk and moon phase, and also the blued 22k gold Battle-axe automatic winding rotor is arrestingly visible through the display back.
To ensure maximum light and visibility through to the movement, the two dials – minutes and date – are also in sapphire, sapphire disks lightly brushed to a perfect translucency ensuring full legibility of the polished silvered numbers while allowing maximum light through to the engine beneath.

MB&F Horological Machine No2-SV Face

While Horological Machine No2-SV is a highly engineered 21st century timepiece in every sense, the quality and execution of the hand finishing showcases the very best in traditional craftsmanship. It is craftsmanship that is brought to the fore as the sapphire case allows uninterrupted light to enter, bounce and scintillate off the highly polished surfaces and perfectly hand-bevelled edges, bringing vivacity to the rich combination of colours, materials, shapes and textures.

The engine, developed by award-winning master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, features the world’s first mechanical movement offering: Instantaneous Jump Hour, Concentric Retrograde Minutes, Retrograde Date, Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase and Automatic Winding. One highlight (of many) of the HM2 complication is the highly energy-efficient Jump Hour/Retrograde mechanism developed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, which uses his exclusive (and patented) asymmetrical-tooth gear wheels to ensure high precision and play-free functionality.

HM2-SV movement

HM2-SV – Technical Specifications

Horological Machine No2-SV is a limited edition of 25 pieces only

Movement:
Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor designed functionality regulated and powered by a Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear train
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph
Blued 22k rose gold Battle-axe automatic winding rotor

Number of components:
349 including 44 jewels

Functions:
Left dial: Retrograde Date and Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase
Right Dial: Jumping Hours and Concentric Retrograde Minutes

Case:
Sapphire/titanium limited to 25
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 59mm x 38mm x 13mm
Water resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
Number of parts: 120 (case only)

Sapphire crystals:
Sapphire case top and crystals over the dual dials treated with anti-reflective treatment on both faces. Display back with anti-reflective treatment on single face.

Dials:
Brushed sapphire and metallic blue disks

Strap & Buckle:
Black hand-stitched alligator with 18k white gold & titanium folding buckle

Presentation box:
Precision engineered aluminum and leather instrument case featuring an integrated Rüeger thermometer

Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck

Dr. Ludwig Oechslin’s concept focused on the system of Sun, Earth and Moon, concentrating on the scientifically accurate depiction of the moon phase, and the global influence of lunar and solar gravitation, resulting in the ebb and flow of the tides.

By combining the movement of two rotating discs in one display, the moon phase indication is so precise that more than 100,000 years will have to pass before it shows a full moon rather than a new moon (or vice versa). The Moonstruck simulates the rotation of the Moon around the Earth, as well as the apparent movement of the Sun around the globe. The latter is shown by another disc, rotating once every 24 hours. This permits the determination of the current moon phase in relation to any location in the world.

The Moonstruck also shows the global dynamics of tides that depend upon the gravitational effects of Moon and Sun. This revolutionary mechanical wristwatch illustrates the current tidal status and trend in relation to specific coastlines or oceans. The cumulative influences of the Moon and Sun which result in spring tides are also clearly shown.

The Moonstruck is a practical travel companion. It features a pointer calendar and a quick-setting device to adjust the hour hand forward and backward to any desired time zone by pressing the pushers plus and minus located at 2 and 4 o’clock.

The Moonstruck is a Ulysse Nardin in-house development. The manufacture caliber UN 106 features a silicium escapement and a hairspring made with the latest silicium technique.

The Moonstruck is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces in 18 ct red gold and 500 pieces in platinum.

Source: www.swisstime.ch

Louis Erard Collection 1931 40mm Moon Phase

While the Swiss watch industry has felt the full force of the financial crisis, with exports down 25% during the first nine months of the year, Montres Louis Erard S.A. is counting on a relative decline of only 5% for fiscal 2009. Without resorting to any triumphalism – this year’s Christmas sales are crucial for realising this figure – the company can nevertheless congratulate itself on not having had to lay off any employees since the crisis began, not even on a temporary basis. In fact, it has even taken on new staff!

A winning strategy

Based in Le Noirmont in the Swiss Jura, the independent watchmaker produces mechanical watches exclusively, classically-inspired and at very accessible prices (starting at € 450). Its strategy has always been quite clear: to produce elegant, unpretentious timepieces, neither flashy nor overstated, but with real horological added value thanks to the combination of small, useful complications and meticulous design and finishing. As CEO Alain Spinedi explains: “Since restructuring in 2003, we have practised rigorous cost-management so we can offer a quality product at the lowest possible price. Suffice it to say that this strategy was often perceived as going against the current during that euphoric period in the watch sector that ended in the autumn of 2008. On the positive side, this crisis will at least result in a return to healthier values. Consumers, more knowledgeable than ever, are looking for products offering real value at a fair price. They are no longer content paying for flashy exteriors and aggressive marketing, as was the case before. And so much the better!”

New models true to the brand’s values

This autumn, Louis Erard is offering two new models in its Collection 1931: the Moon Phase and the GMT Large Date, housed in large (44 mm) or more traditionally-sized (40 mm) cases of steel or rose gold, with silvered or anthracite dials. Both models are impressive examples of authentic, unpretentious luxury. For Louis Erard, the essence of luxury is to be found in designs unfettered by fashion, and thus stamped with a certain classicism. Luxury for this watch company is not synonymous with high cost, but with good taste, savoir-faire and an uncompromising approach to choice and quality. In view of this year’s results, this is clearly a philosophy shared by more and more fine watchmaking enthusiasts!

Louis Erard Collection 1931 44mm Moon Phase

1931 – ∅ 44 mm Moon Phase or GMT Large Date

Movement
automatic ETA 2824
Dubois Dépraz 9000 module (Moon Phase)
TT651 module (GMT Large Date)

Functions
hours, minutes, seconds, date
day, month and moon phase (Moon Phase)
second time zone (GMT Large Date)

Case
stainless steel
44 mm in diameter
double-sided anti-reflective sapphire crystal
transparent back
water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
silvered or grey
silvered hour markers
Superluminova hands
date at centre, moon phase at 6 o’clock, day and month at 12 o’clock (Moon Phase)
large date at 12 o’clock and second time zone at 6 o’clock (GMT Large Date)

Strap
leather or rubber with stainless steel folding clasp

Louis Erard Collection 1931 40mm GMT

1931 – ∅ 40 mm Moon Phase or GMT Large Date

Movement
automatic ETA 2824
Dubois Dépraz 9000 module (Moon Phase)
TT651 module (GMT Large Date)

Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date
day, month and moon phase (Moon Phase)
second time zone (GMT Large Date)

Case stainless steel or 18K rose gold
40 mm in diameter
anti-reflective sapphire crystal
transparent back
water-resistant to 50 m

Dial silvered or grey
silvered or 4N rose gold-plated hour markers
Superluminova hands
date at centre, moon phase at 6 o’clock, day and month at 12 o’clock (Moon Phase)
large date at 12 o’clock and second time zone at 6 o’clock (GMT Large Date)

Strap
black, coffee or grey leather, or black rubber
stainless steel folding clasp or 18K rose gold buckle

Source: Montres Louis Erard SA

Frédérique Constant Maxime Heart Beat Moon & Date FC-335MS5M6 & FC-335AS5MZ9

A unique combination, bringing together the Heart Beat aperture, a moon phase indicator and date pointer

Geneva – September 2009
Swiss watch Manufacture Frédérique Constant Genève presents the latest version in its new Maxime series: the Maxime Heart Beat Moon & Date. This creation combines the iconic Heart Beat aperture at 12 o’clock, a moon phase indicator as well as a date pointer.

The new Maxime collection once again demonstrates the brand’s creativity thanks to its outstanding design, combining tradition and modernity. With a 42-mm case, the brushed steel of the case sides fits perfectly to the polished bezel, which is finished in either steel or in pink-gold capped, depending on the version chosen.

The Maxime Heart Beat Moon & Date is equipped with the complicated FC-335 automatic caliber. It incorporates a Heart Beat aperture at 12 o’clock, the iconic signature of Frédérique Constant. Moreover, at 6 o’clock, the moon phase indicator blends into the guilloché work of the dial, combining a Sunray pattern in the center and “Clous de Paris” decoration under the hand-polished hour-markers. These come in Arabic or Roman versions, finished in the same material as used for the bezel. Finally, a central hand on the outer circumference of the dial indicates the date.

Rich in functions, the Maxime Heart Beat Moon & Date is a watch that perfectly combines the modernity of its case design with the tradition of its dial finishing and its functionality. At the same time, it will not fail to enchant lovers of beautiful watches thanks to its positioning in the “Accessible Luxury” segment…

Live your Passion!

For more information, please contact:
Yasmina Pedrini: pedrini@frederique-constant.com