F.P.Journe Vagabondage II limited edition of 69 pieces in platinum

The Long-Awaited Limited Series for Collectors

F.P.Journe presents the second chapter of the Vagabondage Limited Series, “Vagabondage II”, which will be produced in a limited series of 69 pieces in platinum and 68 pieces in 18K red gold, available from all authorized F.P.Journe points of sale around the world in December 2009.

It is essential to retrace the history of this creation, which has made its mark in the watchmaking history and represents the quintessence of anti-marketing. In 2004, for the 30th Anniversary of Antiquorum, François-Paul Journe created a unique piece to be sold at a Geneva charity auction in favour of the ICM, research institute for Brain and Spinal Cord diseases in Paris, www.icm-institute.org. This was an F.P.Journe Invenit et Fecit creation indeed, but with an unusual shape. For the first time, the Geneva Manufacture created a watch that was not round, with a flat Tortue-shaped case and a dial without the F.P.Journe signature.

Following that charity auction, for which 3 pieces were produced – one in rose gold, one in white gold and one in yellow gold, which sold for three times their value – a limited series of 69 pieces in platinum was launched with an 18K rose gold movement. This series was sold without promotion or publicity of any kind, and without any picture. Collectors went wild for it. A legend was born.

It goes without saying the Vagabondage II series has been long awaited by collectors. This second edition present a manually-wound movement and an original digital time display, with small second at 6, power reserve at 12. The 18K rose gold movement is visible through the dial in smoked sapphire crystal, also without the F.P.Journe signature.

F.P.Journe Vagabondage II limited edition of 68 pieces in 18K red gold, back

The 69 pieces in platinum feature white gold windows with blue hands, while the 68 pieces in 18K red gold have gold windows and hands.
Owners of a Vagabondage I will be given priority for the purchase of an identical limited number from the Vagabondage II series.

A third Vagabondage edition will very likely be created as new technical advances dictate. Each watch of the “Vagabondage” series will have an original digital display system.

F.P.Journe continually re-invents traditional watchmaking techniques and constantly works to produce novel time measurement instruments.

His peers the world over recognize his integrity in the realization of innovative pieces, his ingenuity, and his unique technical sense. A recipient of all the most prestigious horological prizes, F.P.Journe has been granted numerous awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie of Geneva, among them three influential “Golden Hand” awards.

François-Paul Journe is one of the last remaining Master watchmakers committed to defending the fundamental values of Haute Horology, as he pursues his quest to restore authenticity to the history and practice of time measurement.

Technical Specifications

Movement
Calibre 1509
Manual winding
Movement in 18K rose gold
30 jewels

Dimensions of the Movement
Overall diameter: 29.3 x 28.2 mm
Casing-up diameter: 29.3 x 28.4 mm
Overall height: 5.28 mm
Height of winding system: 3.13 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90 mm

Balance
Four inertia weights
Flat Anachron microflamed spring
Mobile stud holders
Free sprung
Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600 v / h, (3Hz)
Inertia: 10.10 mg /cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dial up: > 260°
24h dial up: > 260°

Principal characteristics
1 minute constant force device, patented No EP 1528443
Digital indication of hours and minutes
Time adjustment via crown in position 2
Pallets escapement with 15 tooth escape wheel
Two position crown
Sub-second at 6h00
Power reserve at 12h00

Power reserve
40 hours

Decoration
High quality

Partly circular grained base plate and Geneva waves
Polished screw heads, chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends

Case
Flat Tortue shape 45 x 37.5 mm
Height 8.00 mm
Dial Smoked Sapphire

Limited Series
Platinum PT 950 69 pieces
White gold windows and blue hands
Rose gold 18K 68 pieces
Rose gold windows and hands

Number of parts
Movement without dial: 223
Cased-up on leather strap: 256

Source: www.fpjourne.com

CORUM Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45

An exceptional timepiece for the 50th anniversary of an iconic collection

For half a century the Admiral’s Cup collection has paid tribute to marine and sea enthusiasts. To celebrate this legendary model’s fiftieth anniversary, Corum has chosen to associate to this eminently sporty watch with an exceptional movement combining two of the most prestigious horological complications: The tourbillon and the minute repeater.

The use of a minute repeater in a watch with marine connotation is not a common feature, however this complication concentrates the strength of two universes, as life on a boat is governed by night and day with ringing bells. From ‘action stations’ in the morning to the evening ring, and even during attention to colors, it is a sailor’s life that is punctuated by these ringing tones. Integrating a minute repeater in an Admiral’s Cup is therefore a way for Corum to pay tribute to the universal connection to this iconic watch.

Another way to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary with great dignity is to propose a new horological achievement: the CO 010 caliber. The development and adjustment of this exceptional movement took two entire years for which Corum required the participation of a dozen of its best watch-making craftsmen.

Each of the components were conceived and developed to guarantee the precision and beauty of the tone by considering its « power » (expressed in decibels), its « precision» (note correctness), its richness (expressed in number of partials) and its «reverberation » (duration of each note). The minutes-rack, placed at the heart of the ringing mechanism, is inverted compared to traditional minute repeaters in order to bring strength and precision to each note. It has also been enlarged to permit a wider lift angle to each tooth, extending the time between notes. The racks hitting the gongs are made out of ultra resistant and hardened steel. Fixed to these racks, countersprings have been specially conceived to find the best balance of the hitting strength and speed.

During the ringing, the rhythm is regulated through the rotation of an inertial flywheel, visible on the movement’s back. The gongs, manufactured from an alloy featuring a composition and thermal treatment that are a closely guarded secret, have been adjusted to strike the hours with an A note and minutes with a C sharp note. These two notes have not been chosen randomly, their specific sequence forms a major third (two tones) with a more cheerful harmony than a minor third (one and a half tones). The precision of the whole mechanism is guaranteed through a Tourbillon with Silicium escapement and pallets offering reliability and durability.

Visible complexity

The result of these intense years of craftsmanship is a micromechanical masterpiece of 14¼’’’ – with a diameter of 32 mm – and a thickness of only 5.35 mm, which ensures a hand-wound power reserve of 72 hours. The finishing was also the object of attention: each surface has been finished by hand; circular-grained components, black polished steels – in particular the strike-hammers and Tourbillon Bridge – circular-grained decoration of the plate and Côtes de Genève finish of the bottom bridges.

The creativity and care which have prevailed over the conception of the caliber CO 010 are again found in the external design of this Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45. In order to specifically highlight the movement behind it, Corum replaced the dial with a smoked PVD treated sapphire glass allowing the wearer to admire the extreme complexity of the minute repeater and Tourbillon mechanisms. Its grey colored treatment, outlined with monochromatic nautical flags on the fitted flange, confers elegant sobriety to this timepiece. On that same sapphire glass engraved in golden writing are «Corum », « Minute Repeater » and « Tourbillon » as well as golden index chevrons and minute numbers. The 45 mm diameter case in 18kt red gold is immediately recognizable thanks to its legendary polished and satin finished twelve-sided bezel.

Ingenious winding

This jubilee model has a bezel containing a hidden winding function. For such a sporty model it was indeed too risky to have the minute repeater’s push-piece extending out which might get caught and potentially damage the mechanism. The Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 has therefore been manufactured with a specific bezel which winds the minute repeater function by rotating the bezel 27 degrees clockwise. Keeping the pureness of the case line and the integrity of the ringing mechanism, this ingenious system offers water-resistance up to 3 atm. Knowing that more than 140 hours are necessary for a Master Watch-Maker to assemble the movement’s 319 components, with an additional 10 hours to ensure perfect sound and notes, there is no need to specify that this Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 will be manufactured in very small quantities: only ten pieces will be produced in our workshops through the end of 2010.

CORUM Admiral's Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 movement Drawing by Atelier XJC

Technical Specifications

Reference
010.101.55/0001 A012

Limited Production
10 pieces

Movement
CO 010, Manual-winding movement with minute repeater and tourbillon
Tourbillon escapement and pallets in Silicium
Frequency 3 Hz, 21,600 vibrations per hour
29 jewels
Special CORUM high-end finish, Côtes de Genève finish on bottom bridges
Power reserve of 72 hours

Functions
Hours, minutes, minute repeater, tourbillon
Ingenious mechanism to activate the minute repeater function by rotating
the bezel

Case
45mm diameter
Typical twelve-sided 18kt red gold 5N case, satin-finish case with polished horns
18kt red gold 5N bezel, satin and polished finish
18kt red gold 5N crown protector
Crown in 18kt red gold 5N, engraved with CORUM key
18kt red gold 5N 4-screw open back cover with anti-reflective treatment

Dial
Sapphire crystal dial with gray PVD coating, opening on the tourbillon cage at 5 o’clock
Red gold 5N coated minutes and minute chevrons
Monochrome nautical pennants representing the hours on the black fitted flange
CORUM logo, Minute Repeater and Tourbillon transferred on the dial
Red gold 5N coated faceted hour and minute hands with white Superluminova

Glass
Cambered twelve-sided sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Strap
Black crocodile leather strap, width 22/20 mm

Buckle
18kt red gold 5N tongue buckle, engraved with CORUM logo

Water Resistance
3 atmospheres (99 feet / 30 meters)

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Limited Edition

Preserving the best from each era and consistently capturing the signs of the times: such is the infinitely delicate responsibility of the designers, master-watchmakers, engineers and artisans of Vacheron Constantin, as they shape creations destined to generate emotions as enduring as those aroused by the discovery of the first pocket watch made by Jean-Marc Vacheron and dated circa 1755.

Throughout its exceptional history characterised by the exploration of countless different paths, in step with current trends and fashions but also guided by its own creative instinct, Vacheron Constantin has consistently distinguished itself – as its historical heritage vividly illustrates – by the extraordinary production of pocket watches that are exceptional in terms of their complications, decorations, shapes…

All of which means that today’s creations from Vacheron Constantin – worthy heirs to a proud legacy and tradition – continue to offer devotees of fine watches a deliberately classical style of contemporary elegance.

Yesterday, a symbol of both prestige and freedom

Since its origins in 1755, the year it was founded, the very soul of Vacheron Constantin has been permeated by the famous credo of its quest for excellence. The face will always reflect the soul, and the soul will always enshrine the timeless beauty of the face. This ageless secret is embodied in each creation by Vacheron Constantin.

The pocket watch was originally created to facilitate people’s daily lives. They no longer needed to listen to the church bells or to check the clock at home or in the office in order to know the time. For the very first time, a powerful symbol of prestige as well as freedom, a watch followed its owner every where and became a source of inspiration for watchmakers who were able to use their know-how in making ever smaller movements designed to facilitate their use.

In the same way, while initially considered as vulnerable, pocket watches only remained so until technological breakthroughs enhanced their protection. Today, they can be made as watertight, accurate and user-friendly as wristwatches. These days everyone has pockets, which was not necessarily the case in days gone by, so there is now nothing to prevent someone indulging in this delightful folly.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Limited Edition

Today, a fine object of contemporary dandyism

Vacheron Constantin is revisiting its past and the golden age of the pocket watch by presenting a model featuring a pure, classic and timeless design, belonging to the Collection Excellence Platine and thus necessarily rare because issued in an extremely limited edition.

While not succumbing to the current vintage craze, this pocket watch sets the tone for authentic contemporary dandyism. This spirit is embodied in the exquisitely refined gesture of removing from one’s pocket a splendidly understated model composed of the rarest and most precious of metals – platinum – distinguished by a density that admirably reflects its value. This sensual timepiece with its gentle curves is equipped with the new mechanical proprietary Calibre 4400, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. This epitome of elegance is clothed in a navy blue leather pouch that slides on a leather cord or an original platinum-linked chain, according to personal preference. 21st century elegance is no longer all about wearing time on your sleeve…

In a decidedly modern twist, the pocket watch is promoted to the status of a beautiful and iconic object in its own right. Whether nestling in a pocket, hung around the neck or placed as a table-clock on a desk, it represents a wish to look at time differently rather than simply wearing it on the wrist.

A completely different gesture… Holding a precious pocket watch in the palm of your hand, in order to take time to look at the time on its dial, has once again become an infinitely elegant gesture.

A keen awareness of passing time… A pocket watch is also a means of gaining another grip on time: it is held in the hand and thus offers another perception of time, involving a genuine feeling of reappropriating the moment in hand.

A multi-sensorial object…Released at last from the wrist and presented in a playful form thanks to its pouch and its leather cord or platinum chain, the pocket watch appeals to a variety of senses through its tactile, visual and auditory qualities.

Harmonious shapes creating a perfect balance between exterior and interior perfection.

For this first pocket watch in the Patrimony line, Vacheron Constantin once again offers devotees of fine watches the simplicity and elegance of a naturally classical style. The Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch created by Vacheron Constantin – issued in a limited edition of 50 individually numbered watches available exclusively in the Collection Excellence Platine – reflects a desire guided by the excellence of time-honoured expertise.

A voluptuously curved yet elegantly slender case in 950 platinum; a broad, beautifully restrained 950 platinum dial with a finely grained sandblasted finish reflecting the light with a gentle glow such as only platinum can offer; as well as 950 platinum baton-shaped hands gliding over delicately applied understated hour-markers: the exquisite metallic harmony of this creation contributes to its overall aesthetic equilibrium.

Inside this elegant exterior beats Calibre 4400, the new mechanical hand-wound mechanism representing the latest generation of proprietary movements and entirely designed, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin according to the highest standards of Geneva’s Grand watchmaking tradition. Its generous 28.50 mm diameter, magnified by the transparency of the sapphire crystal back, is perfectly suited to the equally liberally sized 43 mm case.

Thanks to its large barrel, this calibre driving the solitary hour and minute hands is endowed with around 65 hours’ power reserve, corresponding to three full days. And since Vacheron Constantin consistently matches such understated simplicity with exceptional finishing, Calibre 4400 proudly bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

The Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch Collection Excellence Platine thus embodies a philosophy that has remained unchanged through 250 years of history, experience and expertise: an obsession for perfection at each stage in the conception of a watch, and in each and every second of the life of the person it so faithfully accompanies.

Pure, rare, eternal… Platinum, the most precious of all metals

The obvious choice of precious metal when only the best or the most exclusive will do, platinum has inspired Vacheron Constantin to create its Collection Excellence Platine Limited Editions, in tribute to the distinctive properties and assets of this rare metal.

Long considered the exclusive preserve of royalty and statesmen, now joined by collectors and exceptional individuals with refined tastes, platinum conveys a definite aura of prestige that elicits a sense of kinship among a distinguished elite of discerning connoisseurs. For them, owning a Vacheron Constantin timepiece from the Collection Excellence Platine grants them privileged access to one of the world’s most exclusive circles.

Each new and necessarily limited-edition Vacheron Constantin model identified as belonging to the Collection Excellence Platine features a solid platinum dial discreetly bearing the inscription “PT950”, along with platinum hands, case and crown, and is housed within a grey lacquered ashwood presentation box.

Vacheron Constantin watchmakers first began using platinum in 1820, and the Geneva-based manufacture has since employed this precious metal in many of its most complex and original creations.

While 18-carat gold contains just 75% of the precious metal, platinum is 95% pure. Also much rarer than gold, it is found in an extremely small number of deposits worldwide, mainly in South Africa.

Its density and its weight are far superior to other metals and make it a more durable material. This quality means that a tiny scratch on a platinum model merely displaces the metal, engendering only a minimal loss of material. An object in platinum therefore retains its full value, as befits a token of eternity. Moreover, it is not subject to oxidation and is thus not affected by the passing of time, making it a perfect lifelong companion.

In addition to its resistance and its density, platinum boasts another remarkable quality: its extreme malleability. It is indeed malleable to the point where a single gram of metal can be drawn out to form a thread stretching almost two kilometres.

Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine specifically in order to highlight the distinctive qualities of this noble metal.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Limited Edition

Technical Specifications

Reference
Patrimony Contemporaine pocket watch
Collection Excellence Platine
82028/000P-9490

Limited edition of 50 numbered pieces

Movement
4400, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy
Mechanical, manual-winding

Height of movement
2.8 mm

Diameter of movement
28.50 mm

Jewels
21 rubies

Frequency
28′800 vibrations/hours

Indications
Hours and minutes

Power-reserve
Approx. 65 hours

Case
Platinum 950
43.00 mm diameter

Water-resistance
3 Bar, equivalent to 30 meters

Dial
Platinum 950
Finishing sand-blasted
« PT 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock

Chain Delivered with an alligator leather cord
Length 30 cm

Platinum chain available on order
Length 30 cm

Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve

Five different finishes for an ultra-sophisticated new dial: the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin once again demonstrates its superlative mastery of the watchmaking art with its new Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve model.

The tonneau or “barrel” shape, explored by Vacheron Constantin since 1912. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and also began charting new stylistic territory, in step with the major artistic movements characterising the dawn of the 20th century. In turn elongating, curving, embellishing or paring down the case according to the inspiration of the moment, Vacheron Constantin already introduced departures from exclusively round designs in 1912, starting with the famous tonneau or “barrel” shape. A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model.

With its generously sized case (39×49mm), original fan-shaped lugs, distinctively graphic dial design and facetted dagger-shaped hands, the new Malte is bound to delight the most demanding connoisseurs.

The tonneau-shaped case frames a magnificently harmonious dial in silvered gold, striking a perfect balance between technical and traditional watchmaking. It is adorned with five different finishes, all of them involving highly skilled craftsmanship. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered. The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white. The moon-phase display embodies a clever blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanised base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve, white gold

The manual-winding 1410 calibre powering the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve is entirely developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. It bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, a token of quality reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing. Both sides of the mainplate are circular-grained and the edge drawn out, meaning adorned with parallel lines using a file and bevelled. Also meticulously drawn out and bevelled, the bridges are embellished with a Côtes de Genève motif. In addition to hour and minute hands, Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

The Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve is available with a case in 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold. The satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal. Naturally guaranteed water-resistant to a depth of 30 metres, this timepiece is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve, pink gold

Technical Specifications

References
Malte moon phase and power-reserve
83080/000G-9408 et 83080/000R-9407

Movement
1410, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy
Mechanical, manual-winding

Height of movement
4.2 mm

Diameter of movement
26.00 mm

Jewels
22 rubies

Frequency
28′800 vibrations/hours

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Precision moon phase
Power-reserve

Power-reserve
Approx. 40 hours

Case
18 K white or 5N pink gold
39 mm x 49 mm tonneau shape

Water-resistance
3 bar, equivalent to 30 meters

Dial
18 K white or 5N pink gold
Silvered, « Clou de Paris » hand-guilloché interior zone
Vertical satin finished exterior zone
Applied Maltese cross in 18K white gold or 5N pink gold

Strap
Black or brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled alligator leather

Clasp
18K white or 5N pink gold folding clasp, polished half Maltese cross

Vogue Joyas winners

The prestigious Spanish orchestra conductor Inma Shara, international image of Vacheron Constantin, received proudly the Award

Madrid, 23th June, 2009- The Vogue Jewels Awards 2009 was celebrated in Madrid (Spain). The impressive model Kallania won the prize in the category “Best Jewel Watch”.

The prestigious Spanish orchestra’s conductor Inma Shara, international image of Vacheron Constantin, was accompanied by Jean Louis Queimado, Brand Manager of Vacheron Constantin Iberia. This award is recognition to the exquisite work that has inspired the Manufacture’s master craftsmen to create a new world record: 186 emerald-cut diamonds for a total of approximately 170 carats that illuminates this miracle of patience and perfection.

Kallania is a masterpiece and a worthy heir of the renowned Kallista, which celebrates its 30th Anniversary this year.

Inma Shara, international image of Vacheron Constantin

Before it was individually certified by the independent laboratory of the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), each diamond went through a long and a selection process from among a large number of stones extracted from several million tones of diamantiferous deposit. The exceptional level of purity, colour, cut, finishing and homogeneity is a rare achievement indeed.

More than any other factor, it is the proportions and precise positioning of the thousands of facets that make precious stones so beautiful. Perfectly aligned, the facets have been meticulously polished by experts to achieve a maximum clarity of reflected light.

Thanks to their light and delicate finishing, the diamonds reveal all their splendor once they have been inserted using the bead-setting technique; each bead is shaped like an inverted pyramid to lighten the appearance of the piece and highlight its luster and radiance.

The assembly, which is carved from white gold, gives shape to the cascade of diamonds which cover it. The perfectly integrated case and bracelet give this distinctive cuff-watch a contemporary air.

By combining traditional savoir-faire with contemporary design, Vacheron Constantin has once again affirmed its values in the 21st century. This house collectors’ piece shows its true worth, the thinnest mechanical movement in the world, the 1003 caliber. Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, it is stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Vacheron Constantin Kallania

Technical Specifications

Reference
Kallania – 33870/S02G-9452

Movement
1003, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the hallmark of Geneva

Energy
Mechanical, manual-winding

Height of movement
1.64 mm

Diameter of movement
20.80 mm

Jewels
18 rubies

Frequency
18′000 vibrations/hour

Indications
Hours and minutes

Power-reserve
Approx. 30 hours

Water-resistance
3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Case
18K white gold set with 18 emerald-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 35 ct.

Dial
18K white gold set with 32 emerald-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 9.5 ct.

Bracelet
18K white gold set with 136 emerald-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 125 ct.

Clasp
Paved scale clasp in 18K white gold

Total of the weight of approx 169.5 ct.

Wyler Geneve WT3 Tourbillon

Geneva, 2nd June 2009 – The manufacture movement used in the new Wyler Genève WT3 tourbillon has a breathtaking design, a unique type of decoration and is the first to be produced in accordance with strict quality criteria that have been registered as the Poinçon du Jura®.

The criteria to be met under the Poinçon du Jura® label are very strict: All movements produced under this label must be 100% Swiss made, of which a minimum of 90% must be made in the famous arc jurassien – the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking industry. Furthermore, such movements must be produced by a company that is totally independent from any watchmaking group.

For Wyler’s WT3 tourbillon movement, the plates and bridges are produced individually from a block of raw material, with no mass production stamping involved. This complicated, meticulous procedure allows numerous variations on the same calibre as well as a level of quality that is considerably higher than that of other calibres stamped in large series. The resulting movement is a refreshing take on the 200 year-old tourbillon design. Its skeleton structure shows off the different levels of its construction, while scratch-resistant sapphire crystals on both sides of the titanium container allow light to pass through the movement and reflect off the individual components

The WT3’s flying tourbillon completes one rotation every 60 seconds from a balance operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and its manually-wound movement offers a 72-hour power reserve. The timekeeping indicators are discreet, with just the hour and minute hands to distract the wearer’s attention from the mechanical dance beneath.

Wyler Geneve WT3 Tourbillon

The new WT3 models are available with the patented shock-absorbing Code-R case in matt black ceramic or 18-carat white gold. Inside this sandwich case, the movement is housed in a titanium container suspended on springs inside a carbon fibre frame to which the outer plates are fixed by polished titanium screws on the white-gold model and black DLC-coated screws on the ceramic model. The result is the world’s only sprung-mounted, shock-absorbing tourbillon.

A proprietary material exclusive to Wyler Genève is used to decorate the WT3 tourbillon. It is the result of two years of development backed by decades of experience in laser technology. Although the production method for this fragile material is a closely guarded secret, Wyler Genève can reveal that no less than 11 consecutive operations and treatments are required to transform a solid and irregular sheet of silicium, by layer depositions, coloration by precious material etc., into very precise components within tolerances of one hundredth of a millimetre. The resulting composite lends itself to the decoration of flat surfaces, making it ideal for the decoration of the movement bridges, where it catches the light to draw the eye to the complex mechanism beneath. Last but not least, each crystallisation is different, making the decoration and, therefore, each WT3 tourbillon unique.

The new WT3 models are fitted with Wyler Genève’s signature rubber strap with an elegant foldover clasp. This comes with an engraved buckle in titanium and stainless steel on the gold model and black PVD steel for the black ceramic model. These luxury timepieces are water resistant to 100 metres and, like all Wyler Genève watches, come with a 2-year international warranty and a high-quality watch box inspired by vintage car toolkits.

Technical specifications

Functions:
Hours, minutes, 60-second tourbillon

Movement:
Mechanical manual winding skeleton movement, 72-hour power reserve, 21,600 vibrations/hour, flying tourbillon.
Movement bridges decorated with proprietary deposition for which each crystallization is unique

Case:
Available in black ceramic or 18-carat white gold
4 titanium screws

Case middle:
Carbon fibre, 2 sapphire crystals

Inner movement case:
Titanium, suspended on 4 independent shock absorbers,

Water resistant to 100m

Crown:
titanium or 18-carat white gold coated with natural rubber, stylised design motif

Crown protector:
DLC-coated steel or 18-carat white gold with engraved Wyler logo

Crystal:
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Back:
Screw-on case-back in ceramic or 18-carat white gold with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal aperture

Dimensions:
Width: 42 mm
Length: 52 mm
Height: 12.5 mm

Strap:
Black rubber with foldover clasp

References
R05.T3X.00.00.BA001.RBA07.99 – Ceramic case with black rubber strap and PVD steel foldover clasp

R06.T3X.00.00.BA001.RBA07.41 – 18-carat white-gold case with black rubber strap and steel/titanium foldover clasp

Urwerk UR103T grey gold

URWERK presents their latest UR103T creations in red gold and grey gold. But be careful as you are enticed into their golden web.

The originality of the UR103T is obvious at first glance: 4 highly visible rotating satellites bearing the hours take turns gliding past the minute arc. As they do, time is simultaneously indicated both digitally (hours) and analogically (minutes).

The main horological challenge was ensuring the perfect balance of the rotating satellites – which are more than 300 times heavier than a traditional hand – while minimizing friction, so that no energy is wasted. To do this Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker and co-founder of URWERK, tested and selected the best performing material for the job: aluminum. The 4 satellites of the 103T are precisely crafted of aluminium for its optimal blend of strength and lightness. Each satellite is mounted on a bronze/beryllium Geneva cross and suspended from a orbital cross structure made from ARCAP 40: a material that is light, non-magnetic and corrosion resistant.

The satellites, each bearing 3 numbers, make a complete revolution of the dial every 4 hours and in that time turn four times 120°, to rotate 480° on their own axis. Each hour number displays the time as it advances slowly across the minute track.

On the back of the UR103T is URWERK’S famous world premier ‘Control Board’. This wristwatch “dashboard” features a 43-hour power reserve indicator, a chronometer with minutes and seconds facilitating accurate time-setting and, in a nod to Abraham Louis Breguet, a precision adjustment screw making it possible for the owner to precisely regulate the timing on their UR103 to match their lifestyle.

Urwerk UR103T exploded view

Model: UR103T

Case: Available in red gold or grey gold

Dimensions: 50mm x 36mm x 13.5mm

Movement: Calibre 3.03 ; manual winding; 21,600bph/3Hz Power reserve: 43 hours Triple bridges in black ARCAP P40 Time Indication by hour satellites rotated by Geneva crosses Control Board: Grade 5 titanium, power reserve indicator, 15-minute and seconds dials for precise time-setting, user adjustable fine-tuning screw