Chapter One Round by Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps presents Chapter One Round, featuring a bold, architecturally-inspired round case housing Chapter One’s groundbreaking combination of complications. The interplay of the multi-level concentric circles of the case and dial entices the viewer’s eye inward to the majestic amphitheater of the indication-rich dial. There, attention might first alight either on the kinetic ballet of the sublimely finished tourbillon or on the eye-catching red of the counterpoised chronograph second hand, both in contrast to the backdrop of the dial’s dark brushed-satin finish. However, it isn’t long before the clear legibility of layout impresses with its elegant and functional design.

The circles within circles are perfectly balanced by the juxtaposition of the rectangular forms of the two roller indications showing the day and moon phase, which curve down from the top of the muscular case like buttresses and seamlessly integrate the lugs for the strap. Large polished chamfers running the full length on each side of the case catch and dynamically reflect the light and provide a foil to the brushed finish of the vertical elements.

Developed by a collaboration of world-renowned master watchmakers, Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One Round features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon.

Chapter One Round by Maîtres du Temps

A tour of the highly legible dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock. Stylish ergonomic correctors with a slide-to-unlock feature make adjusting the calendar indications a tactical pleasure.

“After working on Chapter One for nearly two years, I was struck by the strength in the design of this round version: it is far stronger in character and presence than I dared hope for,” says Peter Speake-Marin.

Actualizing the sophisticated case of Chapter One Round — comprising 96 individual components — requires the precision and care of an artist. The hand-polished and brushed-satin finishes of the three main case elements — central body and two lugs — demand meticulous exactitude to ensure that all of the finishes line up precisely so that the lines flow smoothly. The development of the case alone required a full year of research and development.

“Maîtres du Temps continues to diversify the Chapter One collection by offering timepieces with sophisticated design and technical mastery. This latest round-case version offers a sculptured structural feel with distinguished technical features,” says Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.

Master watchmaker Christophe Claret

The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s indications disguises the fact that Chapter One is an incredibly complex timepiece crafted from 678 finely finished and beautifully decorated components. Chapter One Round stands as an enduring testament to the skill, patience, and dexterity of its world-class creators.

The bold architectural form, innovative indications, and ergonomic functions of Chapter One belie the incredible complexity of its unique movement and the structural sophistication of its case.

Chapter One’s master watchmakers have come together to craft a horological work of art, both inside and out. Alternating finishes play with light around the case, imparting a sense of strength and majesty without leaving a trace of the complexity involved. The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components.

No wristwatch before Chapter One has ever featured a tourbillon movement incorporating a mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and phase of the moon and day of the week indications displayed on their own distinctive rolling bars. Efficiently transmitting power 90° to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was an immense technical challenge. That the challenge was met and surpassed is further testament to Chapter One’s enormously talented team.

A tour of the dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.

Master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin

Meticulous attention to every minute detail throughout the design and execution of all facets of Chapter One’s development has resulted in a timepiece of exceptional presence and refinement. The harmoniously integrated rolling bars, for example, had to be both large enough to be easily read and small enough to be ultralight and homogeneous with the case. Scintillating, laser-pierced moon and stars on the outer roller of the moon phase indication add to its stellar elegance.

Myriad details make Chapter One a timepiece that richly rewards a closer look, from the small window between the day roller and the tourbillon, which allows a unique view of the superbly finished gyrating tourbillon cage, to the contrast of the hands against the brushed-satin finish of the multi-strata dial. Even the locking corrector pushers are formed from curves running concentrically to perfectly follow the graceful flow of the circular case.

The story of Chapter One Round is one of glorious complexity in celebration of the men behind it.

Technical Specifications – C1R.55.2E.22-2

Chapter One Round Movement Dial Side

Displays
Central hands indicating hours and minutes
Central chronograph counterpoised second hand
60-minute counter at 12 o’clock
Retrograde date at 3 o’clock
Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock
One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock
Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock

Functions
Two-position winding crown: pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the time
Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown

Correctors
Date corrector at 2 o’clock
Day of the week corrector at 4 o’clock
Moon phase corrector at 8 o’clock
GMT corrector at 10 o’clock

Chapter One Round Movement Back Side

Case
18K 5N red gold
Number of components: 96
Dimensions: 62 mm x 59 mm x 22 mm
Sapphire crystals with double anti-reflective coating
Display back: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
High polish and satin finishes
Correctors with integrated locking system

Dial & Hands
Number of components: 24
Multi-faceted and beveled with brushed and velvet surface finishes
Diamond-cut facet applied markers with Super-LumiNova
Red counterpoised chronograph hand
Diamond-cut facet hands for chronograph counters, hour, minute, date, and GMT

Rollers
Day roller: matte anodized Anticorodal finished aluminum
Moon phase roller: anodized Anticorodal finished aluminum inside a matte anodized cover with laser-pierced moon and stars
Window between day roller and tourbillon

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator strap with 18K 5N red-gold deployant buckle

Source: www.maitresdutemps.com

Frédérique Constant Limited Edition FC-303CH4P5 piano

Short Biography

Frédéric-François Chopin (March 1, 1810 – October 17, 1849) is widely seen as one of the greatest of Polish composers renowned for his piano works. A great Romantic composer, who nevertheless wrote absolute music with formal titles such as Mazurkas, Impromptus, Walzes, Nocturnes. He was another one of the extremely rare child prodigies. The musical talent of young Chopin became apparent early on. At the age of 7, he was already the author of two polonaises (in G minor and B-flat major), the first being published in the engraving workshop of Father Cybulski. The prodigy was featured in the Warsaw newspapers, and ‘little Chopin’ became the attraction at receptions given in the aristocratic salons of the capital. He also began giving public charity concerts. His first professional piano lessons lasted from 1816 to 1822, when the teacher was no longer able to give any more help to the pupil whose skills surpassed his own.

Chopin’s music for the piano combined a unique rhythmic sense (particularly his use of rubato, chromatic inflections, and the style of Johann Sebastian Bach), as well as a piano technique, which was of his own creation. This mixture produced a particularly fragile sound in the melody and the harmony, which are nonetheless underpinned by solid and interesting harmonic techniques. He took the new salon genre of the nocturne, invented by Irish composer John Field, to a deeper level of sophistication, and endowed popular dance forms, such as the Polish mazurka and the Viennese waltz with a greater range of melody and expression.

Official Chopin 2010 logo

Chopin in 2010

In Poland, the year of 2010 is announced as the “Year of Fryderyk Chopin” as it is Chopin’s 200th birthday anniversary. Hundreds of events are planned, not only in Poland, however all over the world – concerts, exhibitions, meetings, festivals, congresses and others. Activities are actively coordinated and controlled The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, which was established in 2001 on the basis of an act of the Polish Parliament, to organise concerts, conferences, course, as well as to cover research and popularisation of knowledge about Chopin’s life and work, and cooperation with institutions and organizations dealing in the protection of the Chopin heritage. The Fryderyk Chopin Institute has officially licensed the Frédérique Constant Limited Edition F. Chopin.

Technical Specifications

Reference:
FC-303CH4P5

Limited edition of 1810 pieces, delivered in a miniature Frédéric Chopin Piano

Movement:
Caliber FC-303
Automatic winding mechanism with Date

Case:
Yellow gold plated case
Diameter 40mm
Water resistant to 6 ATM
Convex sapphire crystal, See-through case back

Dial:
Silvered dial with central “Piano guilloché” decoration
Date indicator at 6 o’clock

Strap:
Brown Croco Calf strap

HUBLOT King Power F1™

Saturday 13th March, 2010: Formula One Paddock, 2010 FORMULA 1 GULF AIR BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX.

Luxury Swiss watch brand Hublot is proud to announce that it has been appointed the Official Watchmaker of Formula 1™ and as part of this multi-year agreement will produce a range of high tech, limited edition, luxury Formula 1™ watches and exploit the additional designation Hublot – The Official Watch of Formula 1™ on an exclusive and global basis.

Hublot is delighted to have elevated itself to an unassailable position in Formula One motor racing by securing an agreement with the iconic brand itself. Formula 1™ epitomises cutting-edge technology, high performance, precision and international sporting glamour and this globally revered brand will now inspire a new generation of fabulous Hublot timepieces.

Hublot is to initially mark its presence with the creation of a special watch in the form of the F1™ King, a restricted production run of a King Power model incorporating the famous F1™ logo in white gold, as well as a further Limited Edition Series in the colours and style of the most prestigious Grands Prix. A Hublot boutique will present its collections in the Formula One Paddock Club™ at several events and the company will run a guest hospitality programme throughout the F1™ season. The series of watches dedicated to Formula 1™ will be directly inspired by the world of F1™, combining the finest know-how and manufacturing processes at the cutting edge of research and high tech materials.

Jean-Claude Biver and Bernie Ecclestone

Bernie Ecclestone, CEO of the Formula One group: “I have long had a keen interest in watches and the art of watchmaking and I am very pleased to be announcing this deal today. Hublot’s meteoric rise in the industry has been a very well managed achievement and I would like to congratulate Jean-Claude for this. There is an energy, creativity and dedication to perfection about Hublot which sits very well with us and I could not think of a better brand with which to begin a new chapter in Formula One’s enduring association with luxury watches”.

About Hublot – The exclusive story of Fusion.

In 2004, Jean-Claude Biver – one of those rare men who have genuinely left their mark on Swiss watchmaking – achieved a new tremendous success bringing revolution in watchmaking.

Working on its growth and future, he developed with the company the “Art of Fusion”, the way of thinking and creation at Hublot : combining unexpected materials (ceramic, carbon, tantalum, tungsten, titanium, magnesium …) with precious and conventional materials, employing the most cutting-edge technologies, while still remaining true to the watchmaking know-how of our ancestors.

For more information on Hublot visit Hublot.ch

About Formula One™

Formula One™, which began in 1950, is the world’s most prestigious motor racing competition and is the world’s most popular annual sporting series. In 2009 it was watched by over 520 million unique television viewers from 188 territories.The 2010 FIA Formula One World Championship™ runs from March to November and spans 19 races in 18 countries across five continents.

Formula One Administration Limited, a subsidiary of the Formula One group, was founded by CEO Bernie Ecclestone and holds the exclusive commercial rights to the FIA Formula One World Championship™.

For more information on Formula One™ visit Formula1.com.

BREITLING Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel

BLACK IS THE COLOR OF THE ABYSS

A special version of the Avenger Seawolf Chrono – the only chronograph that is watertight and fully operational at a depth of 1,000 meters (3,330 ft) – the new Blacksteel limited edition is distinguished by its unconventional look matching its exceptional performances.

Black is the keynote here, variously interpreted in the steel case subjected to an ultra-resistant carbon-based treatment; the unidirectional rotating bezel; the large screw-locked crown and non-slip pushpieces; and on the dial base creating a striking backdrop for the white luminescent hands, hour markers and red-rimmed counters.

Its original, technical and powerful appearance makes the Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel limited edition an unmistakable standout model among diver’s watches. But its greatest feat is hidden inside its case, thanks to its magnetic pushpiece system. This exclusive Breitling patented device serves to activate the controls through the metal of the case, without any direct mechanical contact.

This means that whereas most chronographs cannot be used when diving, the Avenger Seawolf Chrono is the only instrument of this type to be watertight and fully operational at a record depth of 1,000 meters (3,330 ft). To accompany professionals to great depths in complete security, this extreme chronograph has been equipped with a decompression valve and a glareproofed sapphire crystal guaranteeing optimal readability in all circumstances.

Its SuperQuartz™ caliber – also exclusive to Breitling – ensures a level of accuracy ten times superior to that of standard quartz movements, enabling it to measure times to within 1/10th of a second complete with split-time indications. The Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel, issued in a 2,000-piece worldwide limited edition, is available on a – naturally black – Diver Pro rubber strap or on a perforated Ocean Racer strap. In a nod to Breitling’s special ties with aviation, its inner bezel ring is adorned with a windrose serving to memorize a course – both underwater or in the air.

Source: www.swisstime.ch

F.P.Journe Vagabondage II limited edition of 69 pieces in platinum

The Long-Awaited Limited Series for Collectors

F.P.Journe presents the second chapter of the Vagabondage Limited Series, “Vagabondage II”, which will be produced in a limited series of 69 pieces in platinum and 68 pieces in 18K red gold, available from all authorized F.P.Journe points of sale around the world in December 2009.

It is essential to retrace the history of this creation, which has made its mark in the watchmaking history and represents the quintessence of anti-marketing. In 2004, for the 30th Anniversary of Antiquorum, François-Paul Journe created a unique piece to be sold at a Geneva charity auction in favour of the ICM, research institute for Brain and Spinal Cord diseases in Paris, www.icm-institute.org. This was an F.P.Journe Invenit et Fecit creation indeed, but with an unusual shape. For the first time, the Geneva Manufacture created a watch that was not round, with a flat Tortue-shaped case and a dial without the F.P.Journe signature.

Following that charity auction, for which 3 pieces were produced – one in rose gold, one in white gold and one in yellow gold, which sold for three times their value – a limited series of 69 pieces in platinum was launched with an 18K rose gold movement. This series was sold without promotion or publicity of any kind, and without any picture. Collectors went wild for it. A legend was born.

It goes without saying the Vagabondage II series has been long awaited by collectors. This second edition present a manually-wound movement and an original digital time display, with small second at 6, power reserve at 12. The 18K rose gold movement is visible through the dial in smoked sapphire crystal, also without the F.P.Journe signature.

F.P.Journe Vagabondage II limited edition of 68 pieces in 18K red gold, back

The 69 pieces in platinum feature white gold windows with blue hands, while the 68 pieces in 18K red gold have gold windows and hands.
Owners of a Vagabondage I will be given priority for the purchase of an identical limited number from the Vagabondage II series.

A third Vagabondage edition will very likely be created as new technical advances dictate. Each watch of the “Vagabondage” series will have an original digital display system.

F.P.Journe continually re-invents traditional watchmaking techniques and constantly works to produce novel time measurement instruments.

His peers the world over recognize his integrity in the realization of innovative pieces, his ingenuity, and his unique technical sense. A recipient of all the most prestigious horological prizes, F.P.Journe has been granted numerous awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie of Geneva, among them three influential “Golden Hand” awards.

François-Paul Journe is one of the last remaining Master watchmakers committed to defending the fundamental values of Haute Horology, as he pursues his quest to restore authenticity to the history and practice of time measurement.

Technical Specifications

Movement
Calibre 1509
Manual winding
Movement in 18K rose gold
30 jewels

Dimensions of the Movement
Overall diameter: 29.3 x 28.2 mm
Casing-up diameter: 29.3 x 28.4 mm
Overall height: 5.28 mm
Height of winding system: 3.13 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90 mm

Balance
Four inertia weights
Flat Anachron microflamed spring
Mobile stud holders
Free sprung
Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600 v / h, (3Hz)
Inertia: 10.10 mg /cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dial up: > 260°
24h dial up: > 260°

Principal characteristics
1 minute constant force device, patented No EP 1528443
Digital indication of hours and minutes
Time adjustment via crown in position 2
Pallets escapement with 15 tooth escape wheel
Two position crown
Sub-second at 6h00
Power reserve at 12h00

Power reserve
40 hours

Decoration
High quality

Partly circular grained base plate and Geneva waves
Polished screw heads, chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends

Case
Flat Tortue shape 45 x 37.5 mm
Height 8.00 mm
Dial Smoked Sapphire

Limited Series
Platinum PT 950 69 pieces
White gold windows and blue hands
Rose gold 18K 68 pieces
Rose gold windows and hands

Number of parts
Movement without dial: 223
Cased-up on leather strap: 256

Source: www.fpjourne.com

Hublot BODE BANG

The partnership between the watchmaker and Miller began in November 2008 and in December 2009 Hublot debuted the “Bode Bang” limited edition watch designed by Bode together with the Hublot design team.

Miller visited the manufacturer’s facility and was fascinated by the know-how and meticulousness of the watchmakers and he set out to craft his own watch. His meeting with Jean-Claude Biver, the CEO of Hublot, led to an immediate mutual understanding. Both passionate, direct men with an expressive and unconventional manner of speech, they quickly found a host of shared values.

The talented, feisty and determined skier, and the inventive, exceptionally energetic boss both demonstrate great generosity through their involvement in supporting humanitarian causes. The creation of the Bode Bang is the fruit of this bond. Together, they decided to divert some of the watch’s royalties to the Turtle Ridge Foundation, founded by Bode Miller and his family in 2005 (www.turtleridgefoundation.org) to support those less fortunate in life, an ambition equally dear to Jean-Claude Biver.

“BODE BANG” Technical Specifications

Case
“Big Bang” diameter 44.5 mm in sandblasted black ceramic

Bezel 
Sandblasted black ceramic with 6 H-shaped steel black PVD screws, sunken, polished and blocked

Crystal
Sapphire with anti-reflection treatment and Bode Miller’s signature at 9 o’clock

Bezel lug
Black composite resin

Lateral inserts
Black composite resin

Back 
Sandblasted black ceramic with sapphire crystal

Crown
Steel black PVD, with natural black rubber insert

Push-pieces
Steel black PVD, rectangular, with natural black rubber insert

Water-resistance
100 m or 10 ATM

Dial
White with black nickel applique indices and numerals

Hands 
Faceted matt black

Movement
HUB4100 Mechanical chronograph with automatic winding

Calendar 
Trapezoid aperture at 4.30, white background, shiny black numeral

Power Reserve
42 hours

Strap
Adjustable black rubber with clasp in steel black PVD

Clasp
Steel black PVD

Limited Edition
250 numbered pieces 01/250 – 250/250

Source: www.hublot.com

Oris Oscar Peterson Limited Edition

Jazz giant honoured by Oris

Oris’ track record in producing limited edition watches is almost as distinguished as the track record of the man to whom Oris dedicates its latest jazz watch: Oscar Peterson.

Regarded by many as the greatest jazz pianist of all time, his career and chosen instrument inspired the special design features of this elegant watch.

The delicately applied indices take the form of piano keys and sit atop a central dial ring with concentric grooves. This dial ring is reminiscent of an LP and refers to the hundreds of recordings Oscar Peterson made during his career.

Oscar Peterson loved watches with Roman numerals and this limited edition honours that – even displaying the VIII in gold plate – a reference to the eight Grammys he won during his lifetime.

The case back carries the Oscar Peterson lion logo and the limited edition number from 0001/1925 to 1925/1925, chosen because it was the year the great man was born.

Oscar Peterson’s talent knew no bounds: the Oris Oscar Peterson Limited Edition is a fitting tribute to a jazz giant.

Oris Oscar Peterson Limited Edition - Back

Product Features

Oris Oscar Peterson Limited Edition
Ø 42.00mm Ref: 733 7642 4084

- Automatic mechanical movement. Centralised second, minute and hour displays. Date display at 6 o’clock.
- Multi-piece stainless steel case with stainless steel crown. Water resistant to 10 bar/100m.
- Sapphire glass domed on both sides with inner anti-reflective coating.
- Black dial with applied ‘piano key’ indices.
- Black dial with applied Roman numerals. VIII plated in rose gold plated.
- Nickel hands with Superluminova inlay. Second hand with ‘O’ counterbalance.
- Black calf skin leather strap with croco imprint and stainless steel folding clasp.
- Varnished wooden box, certificate and DVD.

Canadian Jazz Maharaja, Oscar Peterson

About Oscar Peterson

Oscar Emmanuel Peterson, (August 15, 1925 – December 23, 2007) was a Canadian jazz pianist and composer. He was called the “Maharaja of the keyboard” by Duke Ellington, “O.P.” by his friends, and was a member of jazz royalty. He released over 200 recordings, won seven Grammy Awards, and received other numerous awards and honours over the course of his career. He is considered to have been one of the greatest jazz pianists of all time, who played thousands of live concerts to audiences worldwide in a career lasting more than 65 years.

Source: www.oris.ch
www.wikipedia.org

DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Automatic

The launch of the new Twenty-8-Eight collection of DeWitt is an inspired evolution of the brand, as it harmoniously integrates a more classical style and extremely pure lines and patterns into its unmistakably recognizable DNA: the imperial columns on the flanks of its case.

Offering a subtle combination of character and refinement, the design of the new Twenty-8-Eight collection is sober and balanced. Presenting a slightly thinner case and more discrete columns on its flanks, the new Twenty-8-Eight collection gives a fascinating impression of lightness, however without denaturing the brand.

This new addition to the DeWitt family also intends to pay tribute to traditional watchmaking techniques and in particular to the historical 18th century guilloché machines still used today by the DeWitt artisans. The Twenty-8-Eight collection fully valorises the deep know-how of the DeWitt Manufacture through extremely high quality finishings that enable light and shades to delicately play with volumes and colours.

Imagined and first committed to paper on August 28, the new “Twenty-8-Eight” is also a friendly wink to Mr de Witt’s illustrious ancestor, Napoleon Bonaparte, proclaimed “Emperor of the French” by the Senate on 28 Floréal of the French republican calendar. Twenty-8 is therefore a reminder of Mr de Witt’s imperial heritage, but as well as of the true passion for watchmaking that has accompanied his family throughout generations.

AUTOMATIC

The new Twenty-8-Eight Automatic is an “urban classic” timepiece, remarkably refined and sober. The 43 mm round case presents particularly comfortable proportions as it is slightly thinner (10.28 mm) than the Academia collection. Lines are also softer, as the flanks of the case are adorned by 48 small imperial columns.

Displaying hours, minutes and centre seconds, its black velvet face is artistically divided in two different guilloché zones: a light flame pattern providing incredible life to the centre of the dial, then surrounded by an elegant and reassuring sunray pattern that structures the whole design. Flames and sunrays are separated by a refined circle applique that echoes the thin and shiny columns on the bezel.

Time is indicated by fine roman numerals positioned on the four cardinal points and discretely interconnected by small cabochons. The DeWitt rotor, designed in-house, is visible through the sapphire crystal back. Finally, two miniature “W” signatures are to be found on the crown and on the golden buckle.

Limited Edition of 500

Source: www.dewitt.ch

ALPINA Genève Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

Following the great success of its first Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture – the Full Black version – at Baselworld in 2009, ALPINA Genève is proud to present two new models in gold, both issued in an extremely limited series of just 18 numbered pieces.

These new versions, both as astonishing as the first, feature a “Full Black” dial and a caliber consisting of 188 parts, equipped with a Silicium Escapement Wheel and the latest development: a Silicium lever.

After three years of Research and Development, the experts at ALPINA Genève, Swiss manufacturer of high quality sports watches, were ready to present the brand new, inhouse automatic Manufacture Tourbillon Regulator movement. A team of specialist designers, engineers and watchmakers worked hand-in-hand to revive ALPINA as a true Manufacture. Supported by the latest in high-precision equipment and driven by a passion for innovation.
Based on the award-winning Manufacture Regulator caliber, ALPINA Genève developed its own Manufactured Tourbillon Regulator: the AL-980, completely
conceived within its workshops in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. A unique movement that presents several specific, innovative features: Silicium Escapement Wheel and Silicium lever, Smart Weight Balancing™, fast oscillation at 28’800 BpH and an individually numbered Tourbillon cage.

ALPINA Genève Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

The specific and technical designs of these new Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture models capitalize on the strong brand philosophy of ALPINA: highest level of accuracy, extremely high readability, shock resistance, sturdiness and reliability. The timepiece, with a bold case diameter of 48 mm, is crafted from either titanium with a pink gold bezel, or pink gold with a black ceramic bezel. The matt black dial features finely brushed steel ALPINA Double-Digit indexes. The iconic ‘Extreme’ design elements remain, and have been coupled with a more elaborate dial design: satin-brushed touches of black in the center of the “Regulator” sub-dial, skeletonized hands in black brushed steel, unique and originally decorated bridges in the Tourbillon cage and a black PVD signature ALPINA oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The Tourbillon is one of the most valued and sought-after complications by collectors and aficionados of premium timepieces alike. A Tourbillon mechanism is extremely complex to manufacture due to the required accuracy of all the parts involved. It requires highly qualified and experienced watchmakers to be able to manufacture the ALPINA Tourbillon caliber. By combining technical complexities with the sports characteristics that contribute to the charm of this timepiece, ALPINA presents undoubtedly one of its most extreme creations in history…

Pierre DeRoche - GrandCliff TNT BelCanto

A 19th century movement in a high-tech 21st century model

History of the BelCanto movement

In 2007, Pierre Dubois, Managing Director of Pierre DeRoche, while hunting through the treasures harboured by an antique dealer friend of his, discovered some 19th century pocket-watch movement blanks with hour & quarter repeater and chronograph. As a worthy heir to four generations of brilliant watchmakers, his curiosity was naturally aroused by this discovery, and he decided to buy them.

In search of the movement origins
He showed them to his father, Gérald Dubois, a retired watchmaker still passionately dedicated to his art, and the latter naturally set about examining them in order to find their origin. Right from the start, Gérald Dubois was convinced they were LeCoultre movements, despite the lack of formal proof. Building on his certainty, he undertook a systematic comparison of one of these movements with the certified LeCoultre pocket-watches in his personal collection. The similarities were striking, but the precious “maker’s mark” could not be found.

Gérald Dubois then took an interest in the 8172 patent number engraved on the mainplate. His research led to a decisive breakthrough when he consulted the Swiss federal registers which show a patent for a “New watch with pendant winding” dated May 5th 1894 and granted by the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property to Numa Robert-Waelti, a watchmaker in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Looking for Numa Robert-Waelti
Gérald and Pierre Dubois then began retracing the history of this watchmaker. They consulted Daniel Aubert, a watchmaking historian based in the Vallée de Joux. They also sought advice from Mr Piguet, curator of the Watchmaking Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Nobody knew anything of Numa Robert-Waelti.

Gérald Dubois went back to work and outlined the possible history of these movements:

• LeCoultre produced the movements in the late 19th century and delivered them to établisseurs, watch manufacturers who assembled the various parts of a watch.
• While these établisseurs were generally well-known brands, this was not the case for Numa Robert-Waelti. It is thus probable that the latter bought up LeCoultre movements, made certain modifications – such as the one bearing patent number 8172 – and then sold them to établisseurs.
• These over 100 year-old movements have probably changed hands several times before an antique dealer found them and in turn sold them to Pierre DeRoche.

This scenario seemed plausible, and kind of came full circle. But there was still no proof that these movements did indeed come from the workshops of the Manufacture in Le Sentier…

The “LeCoultre & Co” maker’s mark finally shows up
It was not until Gérald Dubois began taking the movements apart that the precious token of origin finally appeared. Engraved beneath the barrel bridge, and totally invisible on the assembled movement, was the “LeCoultre & Co” maker’s mark.

Pierre DeRoche - GrandCliff TNT BelCanto on the resonance instrument

Movement characteristics

19 lignes, manual winding
Analogue display of the hours and minutes
Hour and quarter repeater
Single-pusher chronograph (with no minute counter)
Time-setting pusher.

These movements were made around the late 19th century in Le Sentier and vividly illustrate the expertise of the watchmakers of that era in the field of complicated watches. The movement is typical of that period. The frequency of the balance is 2.5 Hertz, meaning 18,000 vibrations per hour. Winding is done by a winding-crown placed at 3 o’clock on the case. The winding stem has just one position, which serves for both winding and time-setting. The latter function is activated by a pusher at 4 o’clock that directly cooperates with the time organs on the watch. Releasing the pusher returns the watch to the normal winding situation.

From a 19th century movement to the modern BelCanto

While Pierre Dubois wished to give a new lease on life to these historical movements by fitting them in wristwatches, he was nonetheless determined to maintain the original components, bearing witness to the proud watchmaking heritage of the Vallée de Joux. These “movement blanks” were thus restored, entirely decorated and then reassembled by the Dubois Dépraz master-watchmakers without any technical modifications, apart from the striking gongs and the regulating organs, which are contemporary.

An historical movement decorated by modern-day watchmakers
The expert Dubois Dépraz craftsmen meticulously decorated these three historical movements that now feature a circular-grained mainplate, bridges adorned with “Côtes de Genève”, a sunburst barrel, chamfered and hand circular satin-brushed wheels. The hour and minute wheels are openworked, as is the lower balance bridge, thus revealing the seconds wheel.

Metallization
The high-tech sapphire crystal dial of the BelCanto enables one to admire the movement through the front of the watch. First cut-out and drilled for the hands to pass through, the circular plate of synthetic sapphire – crystallised aluminium oxide that is almost as hard as diamond – is partially sandblasted, involving compressed-air projection of extremely hard particles to create a matt appearance.

On the movement side, the sapphire plate is chrome-plated using PVD technology. A second PVD metallization is then performed to create the smoked areas.

The black dial zones on the hand side of the dial are also created using this metallization technique. PVD plating involves physical (rather than chemical) vacuum deposition of metal particles. The particles thus applied are chrome, or titanium for the smoked zones. Black metallization is achieved by a coating of titanium-based particles of a different composition.

Laser engraving
Once the sapphire plate has been thus “prepared”, the non voluminous letters, numerals and hour-markers can be laser engraved. This type of engraving consists of attacking the sapphire surface with a laser beam and thus forming the letters, numerals and motifs. A varnish – white or red in this case – will then be placed in the hollow of these inscriptions so as to make them well readable.

Creating the voluminous hour-markers by galvanic growth
A “photoresist” varnish sensible to ultraviolet right is applied like a “mask” over the sapphire plate. The dial zones that are already decorated are safeguarded by exposing them to ultraviolet light, which makes the varnish resistant to the ensuing galvanic bath. The hour-marker zone is protected from the light, which means the varnish will then dissolve and mark out the area where the hour-markers will grow.

The dial is then immersed into a nickel galvanic bath. An electrolytic process coats the non-masked area of the sapphire plate with a 0.2 mm thick layer of nickel. The hour-markers are then polished and coated with a thin layer of gold by means of a second galvanic bath.

A highly contemporary rose gold case
The back and the upper bezel of the imposing 55.5 mm case are fitted with two sapphire crystals. The case middle serves to bear the repeater slide and also guarantees water resistance to 3 atmospheres. The case middle also comprises an extremely precise chronograph shunt function that ensures its user-friendliness.

The case is crafted in 750 (18-carat) rose gold, meaning an alloy composed of 75% pure gold, around 20% copper and around 5% silver.

The presentation box of the Pierre DeRoche - GrandCliff TNT BelCanto

The column-wheel chronograph
The chronograph mechanism integrated within the movement features a classic style with a single pusher located at 2 o’clock. It is the “column-wheel” kind. The column-wheel is the distributing organ in a chronograph mechanism. This particular one is a 4/12 type, meaning 4 columns and 12 ratchet teeth, resulting in a ratio of three that means the chronograph is referred to as three-function chronograph with a single start, stop and reset pusher. The sequence of functions cannot be modified in this type of chronograph.

A resonance instrument to magnify the sound of the BelCanto
A luthier known for his magnificent guitars was entrusted with creating a resonance instrument. Based on the same principle as violin or guitar soundboards, he created a base made from the wood of spruce trees from the Vallée de Joux. The sound of the repeater strike is thus magnified when the watch is placed on this base.

A presentation box worthy of this exceptional watch
Another artisan from the Vallée de Joux was commissioned to create the presentation box. This cabinet-maker known for his custom-made creations for the region’s most prestigious watch companies designed an impressively sized burr walnut presentation box measuring 45 x 32 x 17 cm. This exceptional hand-crafted object was also lined in the Vallée de Joux.

Limited edition of only three

Source: www.swisstime.ch