The new Hublot Unico movement

UNICO movement

The integration of the various production stages should give the Manufacture even greater autonomy. The UNICO movement, a chronograph developed entirely by Hublot’s Research & Development department, is now in its “functional prototype” stage until the end of 2009. It will eventually be housed inside the case of the King Power, the latest model to be launched by the brand this year. The workshop is currently producing bridges, main plates and assorted steel components, which will be assembled by fifteen or so new employees to be specially appointed in January for production of the UNICO. The aim is to produce 2,000 UNICO movements in 2010, and close to 20,000 in the medium term.

A special feature of this flyback chronograph is the position of its mechanism and the famous “column wheel” on the side of the dial. However, one of its main innovations is the removable platform escapement, on which the watch owner’s initials can be engraved by special request!

The new Hublot Unico movement

A clever yet subtle feature allowing easier servicing and maintenance, and offering the owner the option to personalize the timepiece. The escapement (escape wheel and pallet fork) is made from silicon, a light, durable and technologically advanced material which resists wear and guarantees more accurate operation.

Movement with column-wheel chronograph mechanism integrated on the dial side, bicompax, 2 push-pieces, flyback, double horizontal clutch, no jumper in the chronograph mechanism, semi-instant calendar, removable platform escapement, second stop device.

Fitting diameter
Ø 30.00 [mm]

Total diameter
Ø 30.40 [mm]

Total height
8.05 [mm]

Display
Hours, minutes, seconds at 9 o’clock
60-second and 60-minute chronograph
Date aperture

Number of jewels
36

Power reserve
> 70 hours (~ 72 hours)

The new Hublot Unico movement

Adjustment
On removable platform escapement
4 [Hz], Swiss lever escapement
Silicon pallet fork and escape wheel
Cross-through balance bridge, height adjustable
Fine rate adjustment

Self-winding
Ceramic ball bearing
2-way winding
Pellaton type

The new Hublot Unico

Time setting mechanism
Classic, 3 positions
- Hand wound
- Quick calendar correction
- Time setting

Total number of pieces
330

Joaillerie 101 Feuille

While the history of Fine Watchmaking is studded with inventions and technical accomplishments, one of them in particular opened up whole new vistas for the entire field: Calibre 101. Created in 1929 in the workshops of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, this prodigious feat of micromechanical engineering has been a watchmaking icon for 80 years. 80 years of uninterrupted history, of consistent advancement and creativity. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen the Venice Film Festival as the venue in which to celebrate the world’s smallest movement. Six very different and equally stunning watches commemorate this anniversary with a blend of grace and inspiration, treating the infinitely small to an infinitely broad variety of expressive variations.

1920-1930 : this momentously eventful period was distinguished by cultural and artistic effervescence, technical progress and social emancipation – especially for women. It was a time of profound upheavals. The watchmaking world was slowly but surely shifting from pocket-watches to wristwatches, while ladies’ watches were also taking off. Jaeger-Lecoultre’s 1924 introduction of its famous Duoplan movement was doubly significant:
from a technical standpoint, by proving that daintiness and precision are not incompatible; and aesthetically speaking, by freeing timepieces from their classic round shape. The worldwide success of the “baguette” watch is the most striking example of this breakthrough design trend.

Joaillerie 101 Feuille open

Building on this feat, the Manufacture pursued its research into scaled-down mechanisms and succeeded in miniaturising the Duoplan movement without compromising its reliability.

This led to the birth in 1929 of Calibre 101, which was to become firmly acknowledged as the smallest mechanical movement ever made. Entirely in tune with feminine eclecticism, it lent itself to all manner of daring approaches, offering the in-house designers boundless ways of giving free rein to their creative instincts. Its jewellery versions have since then adorned the daintiest and noblest wrists, including that of Queen Elizabeth II of England at
her coronation in 1953.

Four generations later, this micromechanical marvel is still in the forefront of the watch industry, despite the fact that only fifty of them are produced each year. Only a handful of watchmakers fully master the sophisticated assembly process required for this paragon of horological precision. 98 parts housed within a mere 0.2cm3 and measuring only 3.4 mm thick; a balance oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour; and a total weight of barely one
gram: its vital statistics are a daunting challenge in themselves! Each calibre is unique, because each tailor-made and individually adjusted part matches only one movement. This brilliant mastery of the infinitely small nonetheless enjoys an incredibly wide range of expression through lending itself to all kinds of personal desires, treating itself to diamonds, playing with shapes and blossoming through a dazzling display of versatility – admirably illustrated in the commemorative models making their exclusive debut at the Venice Film Festival.

Whether contemporary or classic, the Haute Joaillerie 2009 models, which include a masculine interpretation, vie with each other in providing a stylish frame for Calibre 101. A slender profile outlined against a Reverso case; a round, rectangular or square dial revealing or concealing the mechanism; a range of noble and precious materials: each watch issued in limited series of three to five exudes its own personality and affirms its distinctive character.

Each of them carries the stellar watch mechanism and allows it to play the leading role on a sparkling “movie set”.

Joaillerie 101 1938

Joaillerie 101 1938
Embarking admirers a journey through time to the artistic wealth of the 1930s, this re-edition of a 1938 model features a streamlined case adorned with two rows of baguette-cut diamonds. The bracelet naturally extends the dial, while a geometrical frieze pattern meticulously engraved on the sides highlights its Art Deco profile. The hour and minute hands glide gracefully over a dial the exact size of the 101 movement, leaving in their wake a distinct sense that time has stood still to contemplate the graceful beauty of this horological work of art.

Joaillerie 101 Feuille
As if wafted on a gentle breeze, a leaf alights on the wrist and encircles it with radiant elegance. Its luxuriant and delicate lines enhanced by brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds conceal Calibre 101: the leaf-shaped cover can be raised to reveal the passing hours and minutes, and then closed again to help one forget time altogether. A full-fledged piece of jewellery in its own right, this re-edition of a 1959 model keeps jealous watch over its own “private domain” and tells a tale of moments drifting by like precious secrets.

Joaillerie 101 Nodo
Two gold ribbons adorned with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds matching their smooth, supple texture are tied in a graceful bow over the dial.
Radiating a sense of vibrant movement evoking that of a rich fabric, this secret watch unites Haute Horlogerie and Haute Couture to truly striking effect. Inspired by a Jaeger-LeCoultre heritage model, it reconciles the angles of the case with the rounded curves of its face hidden beneath a bed of gemstones. Historical yet contemporary, daring and yet demure, it is nurtured by a set of fascinating paradoxes – very much in fact like women themselves!

Joaillerie 101 Résille

Joaillerie 101 Résille
A bevy of blue and pink sapphires escort diamonds in magnifying the beauty of Calibre 101. The gems arranged in graded shades of colour express delicate artistry calling for a broad range of precious stones required to create such a flowing merge of hues, an effect further accentuated by the extreme suppleness of the watch gently embracing the wrist. Symbolising a blend of rigorous technical expertise and sensual aesthetics, it vividly
embodies the patience and talent of craftsmen at the peak of their art.

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco, men’s and ladies’ models
When the infinitely small is given pride of place at the heart of one of the largest Reverso watches, the parade of time becomes an intriguing illusion. Enchantment pervades the transparent intricacies of a model in which Calibre 101 appears to be floating in mid-air. Time suspends its flight…

The trompe-l’oeil effect is based on a subtle feature generally reserved for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s skeletonised table clocks: fixed to an invisible sapphire crystal, the mechanism floats at the heart of the watch, without even being linked to the crown. The latter can even be removed from the case to serve as a winding tool by sliding it into the recess provided on the back of the movement in order to set the time.

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco

The size of Calibre 101 is matched by the diminutive size of the snow-setting – a particularly impressive achievement considering the tiny gemstones measuring just 0.5 to 1.2 mm in diameter and the finesse of the gem-set surface.

In the men’s version, the scenario is played out in black and white. Onyx and mother-ofpearl provide Calibre 101 with a splendid geometrical backdrop framed on either side by the enamelled gadroons of the white gold case. The contrasting marquetry-worked décor pays vibrant tribute to the Art Deco movement, forcefully evoking the pure and regular linear shapes of that fascinating era. This eminently masculine model, illuminated by its mother-of-pearl flange, distils time in an aesthetic and technically rigorous manner that transforms illusion into glowing reality.

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco ladies’

About Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre

Born of an invention, the Grande Maison has always been driven by the spirit of discovery; the need to create new, ever more accurate and more complex technical marvels. Year after year, knowledge and skills have been enriched, renewed and multiplied to serve the unique purpose of mastering the countless operations involved in manufacturing watch movements and cases – the fundamental prerequisite for rising to the most daunting technical challenges.

A major player in watchmaking history, Jaeger-LeCoultre has now celebrated its 175th anniversary. The Manufacture has an impressive range of world firsts, superlative creations and legendary models to its credit, including the Reverso, the Duoplan, the Master Control, the Memovox Polaris, the Gyrotourbillon I and the Atmos. In 2009, around 1000 people proficient in over 40 watchmaking professions and more than 20 cutting-edge technologies
continue to pay tribute to the pioneering ardour of the company founders by creating new masterpieces proudly perpetuating the grand horological tradition.

In 2010, as a further extension to the capacious premises now surrounding Antoine LeCoultre’s original atelier, Jaeger-LeCoultre will be inaugurating a new building providing 9,000m2 of additional workshop space.

Vulcain Cricket Revolution GMT

The era of self-winding alarm movements dawns at Vulcain

In a historical new move for Vulcain in 2009, the famous Cricket mechanical alarm movement is available for the first time in a self-winding version. The unprecedented Calibre V-21 is powering the two new Cricket REVOLUTION GMT and Cricket REVOLUTION Dual-Time models. A new era dawns for Vulcain with the arrival of this self-winding alarm movement.

No other mechanical movement has made such an indelible imprint on the history of the alarm watch. Since 1947, the hand-wound Cricket alarm movement has been at the heart of Vulcain’s finest hours. 2009 marks a decisive new stage for the Manufacture in Le Locle, with the arrival of the very first self-winding Cricket calibre. This exclusive new 12-lignes (12’’’) movement – Cricket Calibre V-21 – drives the hour, minute, seconds, alarm and date functions. It comprises 257 parts and its two barrels ensure a 42-hour power reserve and a 15-20 second alarm. This Haute Horlogerie movement is crafted according to the most demanding standards and features meticulous decoration including Côtes de Genève and polished and hand-bevelled finishes.

The self-winding Cricket V-21 movement is making its entrance into the Vulcain collections by powering the two Cricket REVOLUTION GMT and Cricket REVOLUTION Dual-Time models. Available in steel versions with 42 mm-diameter cases, these two new launches are entirely in harmony with the unmistakable style of the Manufacture from Le Locle. In tribute to the new Calibre V-21, the dials are slightly open in the centre to reveal a transparent glimpse of the first ever self-winding Cricket movement. Applied Superluminova numerals and hour-markers, a new shape of hands, an openworked date display at 6 o’clock and new crowns stamped with the initials of the function set a sophisticated finishing touch to these models. The GMT and Dual-Time models are available with a choice of sapphire crystal case-back – serving to admire the quality and finishing of the rhodium-plated movement – or with Vulcain’s signature triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber.

Vulcain Cricket Revolution Dual-Time

From London to Hong Kong and from Dubai or Mexico to New York or Tokyo, the time around the world is brought within reach thanks to the Vulcain Cricket REVOLUTION GMT, equipped with the new V-21 automatic movement. This 257-part calibre drives the hour, minute, central seconds, alarm and date window displays. The world-time indication in 24 cities of the world is adjustable by an inner rotating bezel activated by a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock. The new Vulcain Cricket REVOLUTION GMT model comes with a choice of strap in alligator leather or rubber-lined calfskin.

Also driven by the new Manufacture-made automatic Cricket Calibre V-21, the Vulcain Cricket REVOLUTION Dual-Time displays the hour, minute, central seconds, alarm and the date through a window. The dual time-zone function is adjustable by the inner rotating bezel activated by the screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock. The new Vulcain Cricket REVOLUTION Dual-Time is fitted with an alligator leather or rubber-lined calfskin strap.

Representing the new generation of timepieces from the Manufacture Vulcain, and equipped with the new Cricket self-winding movement, the new Vulcain Cricket REVOLUTION collection is available in all authorised points of sales as of spring 2009.

Vulcain Calibre Cricket V-21

Vulcain sounds its first ever automatic alarm

A new era is dawning for Vulcain: with the launch of the Calibre V-21, the Manufacture in Le Locle proudly presents its first self-winding alarm movement. Over 60 years after the legendary hand-wound Cricket calibre, Vulcain is taking a huge new step that is extremely promising in the wake of the brand’s 150th anniversary year.

The event will be a milestone in Vulcain’s history: the Cricket Calibre V-21, the brand’s first self-winding alarm movement, will be beating at the heart of two new Vulucain models as of spring 2009.

Conceived, developed and fine-tuned by Vulcain’s movement design engineers in cooperation with external developers and master-watchmakers, the self-winding Cricket Calibre V-21 is a worthy new addition to a noble line of proprietary movements. Developed on the basis of an even more accurate and reliable version of the legendary Cricket Calibre V-10, and thus representing the sum of more than 60 years of evolution and improvements, the new alarm movement shares a definite family likeness with its forebear.

Like its predecessor, the self-winding Cricket Calibre V-21 is a 12-lignes (12’’’) movement equipped with twin barrels: one to deliver the energy required for the hour, minute and seconds functions; and the other to control the alarm function and its 15 to 20-second ring. It beats at a cadence of 18,000 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 42-hour power reserve. The new self-winding Cricket Calibre V-21 is also equipped with Vulcain’s patented Exactomatic system which equalises the friction on the balance-staff in all positions by modifying the endstones of the incabloc shock-absorbers. This results in more regular amplitude and thus enhanced precision and improved regularity of rate on the wrist.

Comprising 257 parts, Cricket Calibre V-21 stems from cutting-edge developments in terms of reliability and efficiency. Its oscillating weight called for a whole new going train to reduce torque and guarantee optimum winding.

The unidirectional winding bi-metallic oscillating weight is equipped with ceramic ball bearings. It is protected by two anti-shock devices: a V-shaped cut in the centre of the metal enables a slight distortion of the oscillating weight in case of impact, before the latter returns to its initial shape. In the same spirit, a “pavement” on the lower bridge of the automatic winding mechanism provides the rotor with a point of support in case of impacts and thus avoids any risk of excessive tension. Also specially developed for this new Calibre V-21, the click wheel drives the barrel ratchet to enhance winding while on the wrist and enables smooth disconnection during crown winding.

Boasting an impeccable pedigree as well as reliable performances, the self-winding Cricket Calibre V-21 alarm movement also features a new “hammer and anvil” system designed for the alarm function. The innovation lies in the arm which, when coupled with the hammer, strikes the “anvil” that is now placed at the centre of the movement. Vulcain’s cherished principle of double or triple-backed cases is as relevant as ever here.

From spring 2009 onwards, the new self-winding Cricket Calibre V-21 movement will be powering the first two new-generation Vulcain watches: the Cricket REVOLUTION GMT and Cricket REVOLUTION Dual-Time. Subsequently, the Cricket Calibre V-21 will be featured in other new releases by Vulcain.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

This summer the Overseas is dressed in gray: a monochromatic theme from bezel to dial to strap for a sporty, dynamic and elegant timepiece.

The Geneva-based manufacture Vacheron Constantin is presenting two new Overseas models this year: an Automatic and an Automatic Chronograph. It has opted for sophisticated and trendy gray, giving full scope to this popular colour with a slate gray dial, mouse gray strap, anthracite gray titanium bezel, and steel gray case. An exclusive and elegant combination of tones that suffers no rivalry from any other colour.

The Overseas, a reinterpretation of a 1933 model and of the 222 made in 1977, was launched by Vacheron Constantin in 1996. Dynamic, sporty and dedicated to travel, this new line quickly became the faithful companion of globetrotting enthusiasts looking for technical and aesthetic excellence. With their clean, naturally elegant lines, these highly technical products became an instant hit. The strong invitation to travel is conveyed today by the whole collection, whose appeal lies in its classical and dynamic character, remarkable functionality and exemplary legibility.

In 2004, Vacheron Constantin launched a new generation of the Overseas line, one that was resolutely more sporty and modern. It included a men’s model, a ladies’ model and a chronograph model, all in steel. The cases were slightly larger and a new bracelet of half Maltese cross links was developed.

In 2006, to celebrate the line’s 10th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin presented the Dual Time, an extremely useful function for busy travellers.

In 2009, Vacheron Constantin introduced titanium in its Overseas line in two new models: the Automatic and the Automatic Chronograph. The steel case, titanium bezel and slate grey dial gave the watch a particularly sporty and elegant character. The manufacture also used titanium in 2008 in its Quai de l’Ile collection.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

Titanium was discovered in 1791 by the Reverend William Gregor, a British mineralogist and chemist, and named after the Titans in Greek mythology. An industrial production process was developed in 1939 by a metallurgist and chemist from Luxembourg, Wihelm Justin Kroll. Titanium is a light, bluish grey metal that is resistant to corrosion, erosion and fire. It is widely used in the aeronautics, aerospace, chemical and medical industries and recently in the watch industry where it is used for its contemporary look, imposing and original quality, and light weight (density 40% lower than steel), all perfectly in line with the expectations of new customers of technical Haute Horlogerie.

The cases of these two new models, each with a generous diameter of 42 mm, incorporate all the identifying features of the Overseas collection: sleek lines, a bezel inspired by the Maltese cross, hour-markers and screwed-down pushpieces for the chronograph version, white luminescent hour-markers, water resistance to a depth of 15 ATM, the equivalent of 150 metres, and, of course, the emblematic Overseas motif of the three-masted sailing ship, the Amerigo Vespucci, engraved on the caseback.

Besides its classic hours, minutes and seconds functions, the Overseas Chronograph has two counters – 30 minutes at 3 o’clock and 12 hours at 9 o’clock – and an over-sized date window below 12 o’clock.

The automatic mechanical movement – the 1226 calibre for the mechanical model, the 1137 calibre for the chronograph – is enclosed in soft iron which gives it 100% protection from the all-pervading effects of magnetism that can affect the rate and precision of a watch.

Every watch is delivered with two straps, one in mouse gray alligator, the other in black rubber.

Thierry Nataf

“This year I wanted to celebrate the whole of this iconic collection, which, rather than staying in a fixed state of perfection, has always been able to rise above itself, each time producing a more accurate representation of the Master of Time.”
Thierry Nataf
President, CEO of ZENITH International.

Timeless in style, this collection, with its subtle Italianate overtones, threads its way between Tradition and Modernity. This icon of the ZENITH Manufacture, inspired by the neoclassical, is a celebration of Time. From the double gaudron case to the authentic barleycorn guilloche, it has a look that harks back to the great watchmaking tradition. Its boldly innovative design allows the 36,000 vibrations per hour of the mythical El Primero chronograph to be glimpsed at the heart of the movement.

This collection, timeless yet strikingly modern, which now joins the Haute Horlogerie universe along with the ChronoMaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase, has been enriched with new complications over the years, thus writing new chapters in the history of the ZENITH brand.

The ChronoMaster Open El Primero 4021 Manufacture caliber
The ChronoMaster Open matches the watchmaking tradition with modernity, ZENITH uncovers the heart of Time and reveals the 36,000 vibrations per hour of the legendary El Primero chronograph through the opening in the dial.
This will be the first Open El Primero 4021 calibre.
The impertinence of the collection is creating a stir in the watchmaking world.

The applique numerals, the double gaudron of the case, the black alligator strap are the signature features of a new elegance.

The range is available in two sizes (45 mm and 40 mm), in rose gold with a silver guilloche or stainless steel dial or alternatively in stainless steel with a choice of dial in black or silver, with a smooth or guilloche finish.

A revolutionary technology allied to a daring design – this collection is reasserting its distinguished and ambitious style.

Zenith ChronoMaster

ChronoMaster Open Grande Date El Primero 4039 Manufacture calibre
In 2008, this collection was endowed with a new fully-mastered complication, the ChronoMaster Open Grande Date.
This innovative timepiece stands out because of its design as well as its sophisticated technical features.
The three patented disks for the Grande Date at 2 o’clock can be seen as a result of the outstanding transparency of the dial.

This translucent and unbreakable material – the result of space research – lightens the perspective, making it seem as though the numerals are floating.

The opening on the dial at 10 o’clock, the emblematic symbol of the range, reveals the El Primero 4039 movement composed of 331 components and 41 rubies.

The appliqué Roman numerals and barleycorn guilloche dress the dial which comes in rose gold for a classical look or stainless steel for a more contemporary design.

Zenith ChronoMaster

ChronoMaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase El Primero 4047 Manufacture calibre
Masterpiece of the ChronoMaster 2009 collection, its resolute classical elegance offset by modernity: the ChronoMaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase will surprise.

Illustrating yet again the Manufacture’s specialist ability, this unique complication of a Grande Date, Moon and Sunphase chronograph reveals a new El Primero 4047 calibre, with 332 components and 41 rubies, through the opening in the dial.

The barleycorn guilloche on the dial, the wavy guilloche on the counters and the moon disk, the delicately pearlised plate and the guilloched oscillating mass are so many precise and refined indications of authentic watchmaking know-how.

In one 45 mm size, the rose gold cases show off a silver dial whilst those in stainless steel offer the choice of a black or silver dial.

Aristocratic and refined, the ChronoMaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase records the mechanical measurement of Time in style.

OMEGA Co-Axial EScapement with Silicium Balance Spring

When OMEGA launched its Co-Axial calibre 2500 in 1999, the entire mechanical watch industry was put on notice. The Co-Axial Escapement in the calibre was the first practical new mechanical watch escapement to be introduced since the English and Swiss lever escapements were invented in the 18th and 19th centuries respectively.

The operative word here is “practical”: in the decade following the launch of the first Co-Axial calibre, OMEGA introduced the state-of-the-industry escapements into every one of its watch lines, achieving chronometric performance standards previously unimagined for series-production mechanical watches.

OMEGA Co-Axial escapement from George Daniels

Master watchmaker George Daniels, who invented the Co-Axial Escapement, said of his masterpiece, “It is intended to sustain the public affection for the mechanical watch during the 21st century.” It is well on its way to doing so.

In simple terms, the escapement is the heart of the mechanical watch, as it maintains the oscillations of the balance, the watch’s regulating mechanism. The OMEGA Co-Axial Escapement reduces the friction among the parts that transmit energy to the other components, resulting in a reduced need for servicing for the movement and, above all, greater stability of the watch’s precision over time.

OMEGA’s launch of the Co-Axial calibre 8500 in 2007 marked a dramatic step in the evolution of OMEGA’s Co-Axial philosophy. For the first time, the company built an entire movement around the Co-Axial Escapement. Every one of its 202 parts was developed and produced in-house from inception. The movement’s manufacturing processes were optimized for series-production readiness.

For OMEGA it was a return to its roots: the company had, in fact, been named for a serially-produced movement developed in-house in 1890. The introduction of the Co-Axial calibre 8500 demonstrated boldly that OMEGA was back among the ranks of Swiss watch manufactures, companies which have designed and produced their own movements in-house.

The drama continued in 2008 with the launch of the Co-Axial calibre 8520/8521 designed especially for smaller watches and the Co-Axial calibre 8601/8611, a movement with an added instantaneous jump calendar complication.

The revolution in mechanical watchmaking which was signalled by the release of OMEGA’s first Co-Axial movement in 1999 is a defining part of OMEGA – the brand intends, in time, to make the radical technology a part of each of its mechanical wristwatches, carrying on a 161-year tradition of horological excellence.

Luminor 1950 Marina 3 Days Automatic © Panerai

Innovation, a fine tradition in technical mastery and an ongoing commitment to the development of new models and movements which are increasingly functional and reliable: the 2009 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva marks an important turning point for Officine Panerai as it presents the new movements designed and made entirely in-house. It’s the range of movements P.9000, whose three new calibres join the existing four.

With the development of the P.9000, P.9001 and P.9002, Officine Panerai – originally a supplier of highly specialised watches to the Royal Italian Navy – made its name as one of the few international high-end watch makers which design the majority of their watch movement components in-house.

This is an undertaking which Officine Panerai has completed in an incredibly short time. Few other watchmakers have succeeded in developing and making no fewer than eight of its own calibres – P.2002, P.2003, P.2004, P.2005, P.2006, P.9000, P.9001 and P.9002 – fully operational and available in just seven years, with the design for the first calibre dating back to 2002.

The new movements: general specifications
The new P.9000 calibre is available in three versions – P.9000, P.9001, P.9002 – fitted with different functions, but they have in common automatic winding with a power reserve of 3 days and a special technical design which makes these movements immediately recognisable.

The new P.9000 calibre has a diameter of 13 ¾ lignes and is fitted with two barrels which ensure a power reserve of 72 hours; the single-piece rotor winds in both directions thanks to an automatic ratchet device; the balance wheel with adjustment screws, oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz; the stop balance wheel device enables the time to be synchronised with a reference time signal.

To house these new movements, a specially-made version of the Luminor 1950 case from the Manifattura Collection has been designed, keeping the proportions of the original but holding a slightly less convex sapphire crystal which only barely protrudes from the bezel.

Omega Seamaster - © Omega

Omega Press Release – Monday 12 January 2009 -The new Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection seamlessly blends eye-catching design excellence and innovative 21st century watchmaking technology, carrying on the mechanical watch revolution which has been taking place at OMEGA since the launch of the first Co-Axial calibre in 1999.

The watches in the Collection are visually striking with their “Teak Concept” dials whose vertical lines suggest the wooden decks on luxury boats.

Like all Aqua Terra watches, the new Collection has a distinct connection to the ocean – you can almost feel the sea breeze. The new Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection is equally at home on the boat decks recalled by the “Teak Concept” dials or on dry land – these timepieces truly live up to their name.

Dramatic dials and a wide range of distinctive configurations

The dials are distinguished by the sublime “Teak Concept” vertical lines. Their 18 Ct gold hands and hour markers also have a new look: brushed and polished, they are coated with a powerful white Super-LumiNova which, in the dark, casts a dramatic blue reflection.

The selection of metals for the cases and their OMEGA patented screw and pin system bracelets means that the watches are available in a number of distinctive configurations.

OMEGA’s Spring Revolution

The mechanical models in the new Seamaster Aqua Terra Ladies’ Collection are among the first OMEGA watches to be delivered with “Si 14” silicon balance springs.

These extraordinary components deserve a special mention: they represent the next step in the watchmaking revolution taking place at OMEGA. The “Si 14” balance springs are named for the chemical symbol and atomic number for silicon.

Silicon is non-magnetic so the performance of the “Si 14” balance-spring is not disturbed by exposure to magnetic objects. This physical property of silicon allows watches with the “Si 14” balance-spring to deliver significantly better chronometric performance than those whose balance-springs are made of traditional materials.

While the rate of accuracy of mechanical watches tends to deviate over time as a result of small everyday shocks, these disturbances have almost no effect on “Si 14” silicon balance-springs.

There is substantial freedom in the fabrication of balance-springs made of silicon which allows the ”Si 14”’s geometry to be modified for optimal isochronism, the quality of oscillations occurring in equal periods of time. This isochronous quality reduces the amount of deviation in the watch’s accuracy.

The “Si 14” identification marks engraved on the balance arm and on the back of the watch-case serve as a reminder that these are among the finest, most advanced, most accurate mechanical timepieces in the world.

Piaget Emperador coussin moon phase © Piaget

Piaget, the manufacturer of Haute Horlogerie, has unveiled a new mechanic movement, designed and developed in house, the calibre 860P, included in the new Piaget Emperador coussin.

Piaget Emperador coussin moon phase
Model XL
18-carat white gold case
Slate-grey dial, 18-carat white gold applied hour-markers, sunburst satin-brushed silver-coloured centre, large 18-carat white gold moon at 6 o’clock.
Sapphire crystal case-back
Manufacture Piaget 860P mechanical self-winding movement

Movement thickness: 6.1 mm

Number of jewels: 25

Cadence: 21,600 vph

Approximately 72-hour power reserve

Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges , balance with screws, blued screws
18-carat white gold folding clasp
Black alligator leather strap

Ref G0A34021