The 53mm diameter does not include the crown system

One of the highlights of Baselworld 2010 was the U-Boat booth. Not only did this edition of the watch fair inaugurate U-Boat’s inclusion in the main hall, amongst greats such as Rolex and Patek, but this achievement was backed by the manufacturer with the release of some very impressive, new models. Amongst these, perhaps the most anticipated by U-Boat watch fans, was the U-42. Fans were not disappointed.

The U-Boat U-42 is closely related to last year’s 65mm U-1942, albeit more accessible in many ways. The case of the U-42 is 53mm, which is par with basic Classico models. While this is still a decisively oversize watch, it is remarkably comfortable on the average wrist. The price took a welcome turn downhill from the $40k of the U-1942 to an estimate CDN$7K for the U-42. The look of the U-42 as well as a few other things are directly inspired by the U-1942 such as the use of grade 5 titanium and limited production. Only 999 of the U-42 will be manufactured in each dial variation.

A few peculiar aspects of the case set the U-42 apart from other watches. The most obvious is the crown system. The crown of the watch is actually quite long and therefore has to fold into the case where it is held in place by a trigger-like mechanism. The functionality behind this is related to the history of this timepiece. Italo Fontana, owner and designer of U-Boat, based the U-42 watch on a design that his grandfather had produced for the Italian Navy. The size and length of the crown were meant to facilitate operation while wearing thick, protective diving gloves. This heritage also explains how the U-42 came to be a diving watch with a water resistance rating of 300 meters. The best way to appreciate this distinctive crown system in action is to see it. I show this as best I can in this video taken directly at the U-Boat booth in Basel.

The U-Boat U-42 is amongst many watches released this year that attempt to capture a vintage style. The difference is that Italo Fontana does it in a way indicative of U-Boat watches, largely by drawing inspiration from his own grandfather’s actually vintage design. The thick rugged strap, and even the smoky tone of the high grade titanium marry well with this concept. The U-42 is conspicuous and unique, but its bark is backed by the quality of its materials, manufacturing, and its Swiss automatic movement.

The large, intricate crown, while functional, can also double as a conversation starter

Written by Marco: specialist of watches in Canada

BASELWORLD 2010 Hall of Dreams

The 38th Baselworld Show has wound up with smiles all round: firstly from the Swiss exhibitors, with confirmation of the signs of recovery recorded in January and February of this year; then from the visitors in their response to the superb pieces created by Switzerland’s watch and jewellery makers; and, finally, with attendance up on last year, from the organisers.

Recovery confirmed for Swiss watchmakers

2010 started out on a positive note, with Swiss watch exports on the rise for the first time in fifteen months (+ 2.7% in value terms in January and + 14.2% in February), and these signs of recovery were confirmed at Baselworld, the sector’s most important barometer. While performance varied from one brand to another, there was one constant, irrespective of markets or positioning: the large stocks that have weighed on retailers’ budgets since the end of 2008 are being absorbed. There is now an urge to buy, made possible by a renewed availability of liquidity.

BASELWORLD 2010 Hall of Dreams

Another significant feature of the show was the return of American buyers, who had practically deserted it in 2009. Beyond the obvious business perspectives, their very presence symbolises a general upturn, considering that it was in the United States that the financial crisis began before spreading around the world.

Backed by these signs of a lasting recovery, Swiss watchmakers are banking on second-half growth this year comparable to the figures achieved in 2007 and 2008, depending on the region.

BASELWORLD 2010 Hall of Visions

Watchmakers opt for a blend of tradition and innovation

This year’s timepieces display considerable mechanical originality, as though Switzerland’s watchmakers wished to pay tribute to the impressive patrimony they all share. While the crisis put an end to any kind of ostentation, 2010’s creations focus on the métiers d’art. Rarely has finishing achieved such heights of sophistication in watches of unpretentious refinement. Discretion, moreover, seems to be a must where elegance is concerned, as testified by the ladies’ watches, with brands opting for small, even ultra-small, models to highlight their precious character. The men’s 2010 models, like those for women, display a refined aesthetics, the guarantee of good taste capable of defying the dictates of fashion.

BASELWORLD 2010 Hall of Emotions

Switzerland’s jewellers

Results for Switzerland’s jewellers have been more mixed. While brands benefiting from a strong name have skilfully overcome these difficult times, designers with small advertising budgets have had trouble making any impact. Getting people to buy has proved more difficult, especially as stocks remained relatively high, which is not the case in the watch sector.

Despite a certain overcautiousness amongst buyers – Europeans mainly – exhibiting at Baselworld has proved to be an imperative for Switzerland’s jewellers. Getting oneself known, communicating and making contacts today appear to be the determining factors for success tomorrow. True to their values, our jewellers have confidence in the future and are committed to putting quality and reliability above everything else. This year’s Swiss jewellery pieces at Baselworld embody the most striking expression of this philosophy: aesthetic research, new alloys offering original nuances in gold, palladium or platinum and, above all, extraordinarily fine hand-finishing work

BASELWORLD 2010 Hall of Elements

Related branches confident in the recovery

Once again, Europe has confirmed its position as the manufacturing centre for the watch and jewellery sector, while South America continues to grow in importance, confirming the trend started last year. There were, however, fewer visitors from the Gulf and Asia at the related branches’ stands. In general, the crisis has prompted a certain wait-and-see policy, shown by a hesitation to invest in production tools. Nevertheless, the recovery in the watch sector should have a knock-on effect in the related branches over the next few months. While this is bound to take some time, there have already been encouraging signs among suppliers on the job front.

BASELWORLD 2010 Hall of Inspirations

A “good show”

Baselworld 2010 will go down as a “good show” for the Swiss exhibitors, even though there was no repeat of the records attained in 2007 and 2008. The size, quality and reputation of the show, the attendance figures and holding it during the first three months of the year have all laid the groundwork for a robust and lengthy upturn for the whole watch, jewellery and related branches sector. See you next year at Baselworld 2011, from 24 to 31 March!

BASELWORLD 2010 Hall of Impressions

BASELWORLD 2010 in figures

Date
18 to 25 March 2010

Visitors
100,700 | + 7%

Media representatives
2,900

Exhibitors
1’915

Swiss brands
456

Exhibition space
160,000 m2

Dates
2011: 24 to 31 March
2012: 8 to 15 March
2013: 25 April to 2 May

Source: www.swisstime.ch

Photos: www.baselworld.com

Perrelet Double Rotor: A1006/9

Black or silver-white, the new Perrelet designs highlight alternating structures. Guilloché, sand-blasted or snailed decorations contrast with the detail of the polished and polished-satin finish of the steel indexes. True to its code of aesthetics, Perrelet maintains its quality of clear legibility.

These different interpretations housed in their distinctively fluted cases, a specialty of the Brand, are absolutely unique.

The “Classical Double Rotor” is the perfect embodiment of this distinctive character. With its unique design and Perrelet patent, the Double Rotor actually represents the identity of the Brand. The complexity of its mechanism enables one to observe and visualize the automatic winding function on the dial.

The synchronization of the two rotors, lower and upper, makes it possible to check the proper functioning of the movement and improves the winding efficiency in comparison with traditional models.

The Perrelet timekeepers are essential gems for the discerning person, whether in a professional or leisure context, and are fitted with a genuine alligator strap and stainless steel folding clasp.

Refined and simply elegant, the new Perrelet collection of black or silver white dials holds some beautiful surprises in store for its owners.

Antonio Calce with Daniela and Angela wearing Corum novelties Photo: Gregory Maillot

This is with “Happy Birthday” by the Beatles that the conference began. Major event, the Basel Fair is a unique opportunity to meet during 10 days all our partners and the international press.

A landmark event for Corum that celebrates in 2010 the anniversary of two of its main pillars: Admiral’s Cup and Corum Bridges.

DISTRIBUTION

With the take-over of the U.S. market in October 2009, the opening of its first boutique in own name on December 25, 2009 in Hong Kong and the reorganization of its market in South America and the Caribbean in early 2010, Corum has reaffirmed its presence around the world and strengthen its strategy of selective distribution.

MOVEMENTS & PRODUCTS

Corum goes on with the integration of technical and watchmaking skills, from its engineers to its master watchmakers. Corum is aware of the value of human capital and their unique knowhow and seeks to perpetuate and enhance the historical value of the watch brand. Corum develops in-house movements and to both generate and control production of exclusive movements.

In 2010, they are exceptional pieces affirming the creativity and know-how that let Corum be once again among the brands of Haute Horlogerie.

Among the 36 new models launched in 2010, 4 models stands out now among the talking that will set a stone in time. The Golden Bridge Tourbillon with the smallest tourbillon cage escapement in silicium, the Ti-Bridge Tourbillon with a flying tourbillon anchored on a ARCAP bridge (material used in aeronautics) and the Admiral’s Cup Tourbillon Minute Repeater with complications dress a sporty case, the Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull waterproof to 1000 meters with a unidirectional rotating bezel and a helium decompression valve.

COMMUNICATION

2010, an intense year as Antonio Calce, Corum CEO, also confirmed the signature of two new partnerships, one with a new ambassador and the second with a sailing event. Today Corum built partnerships in line with its values and history. If the ambassadors of Corum are distinguished by their sporting qualities, they are also friends of the brand whose human qualities prevail. To top off the press conference, the new website of the brand has been unveiled in a preview. A virtual showcase that takes you to visit the know-how of the brand, to discover our human capital and our history.

www.corum.ch

LINDE WERDELIN Oktopus Moonphase Complication

With a titanium case and a rose gold bezel and details on the dial, the new Oktopus Moonphase has been designed in a classic yet innovative way to show seven phases of the moon from new to half and full. The moon phases are entirely made out of Super LumiNova enhancing the effect and placed along 4 and 8 o’clock to maximize dial legibility.

Based on a Frédéric Piguet automatic movement, the complication is built on the date function to also provide a countdown to the next full moon, read on the moonphase dial. “This allows us to simplify a complicated function like the moonphase and make it easier for the user”, says Morten Linde creative director and co-founder of LW. While encompassing the same case dimensions as the rest of the Oktopus models, the Moonphase bears a sapphire crystal case back, which reveals the skillfully crafted Frédéric Piguet movement and the rotor bearing the AG and LW logos. It has been tested to withstand the pressure of 888 meters and the integrated helium escape valve at 9 o’clock ensures the watch endures the pressure during resurface time.

“Linde Werdelin’s launch of its first complication is an important step for us. We are very pleased to continue our collaboration with Svend Andersen and also start using a Frédéric Piguet movement for our watches” says Jorn Werdelin managing director and co-founder of LW.

On the decision to have the moonphase complication on a divers’ watch, Morten says, “moonlight creates the perfect conditions for after-hours sports activities and particularly diving. More and more people these days enjoy sports under the full moon. This is one of the reasons why we wanted to produce a moonphase complication for our diver’s watch. One can plan their next diving trip by checking when the next full moon is going to be, then clip the Reef for a safe dive.”

Limited to 29 pieces, connoting to the days before the next full moon, the Oktopus Moonphase will be available for deliveries in the fall 2010 on LindeWerdelin.com or from any LW authorized retailer.

Technical Specifications

Limited to 29 pieces

Size
46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 14mm (h)

Movement
Automatic mechanical Frederic Piguet movement caliber 1150, Linde Werdelin & Andersen Genève personalized oscillator
72 hour power reserve / 28 jewels / 28,800 bpm
Moonphase complication by Svend Andersen with luminous photorealistic moon phases and moonphase countdown, manually adjustable by second crown position

Case
Titanium grade 5, microbille finish
3.00mm screw on case-back with sapphire crystal
Rose gold unidirectional turning bezel with 10 minute markings & Super LumiNova marker at 12 o’clock
3.8mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screw in crown with LW logo
Helium escape valve at 9 o’clock

Dial
Black matt dial
Arabic numerals rose gold plated applied indexes with Super LumiNova

Hands
Rose gold plated, diamond cut rhodium plated with applied Super LumiNova

Water Resistance
888 m/2913 ft

Strap
Black alligator strap with titanium ardillon buckle

US Retail Price
$21,700

Source: LindeWerdelin.com

DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Automatic

The launch of the new Twenty-8-Eight collection of DeWitt is an inspired evolution of the brand, as it harmoniously integrates a more classical style and extremely pure lines and patterns into its unmistakably recognizable DNA: the imperial columns on the flanks of its case.

Offering a subtle combination of character and refinement, the design of the new Twenty-8-Eight collection is sober and balanced. Presenting a slightly thinner case and more discrete columns on its flanks, the new Twenty-8-Eight collection gives a fascinating impression of lightness, however without denaturing the brand.

This new addition to the DeWitt family also intends to pay tribute to traditional watchmaking techniques and in particular to the historical 18th century guilloché machines still used today by the DeWitt artisans. The Twenty-8-Eight collection fully valorises the deep know-how of the DeWitt Manufacture through extremely high quality finishings that enable light and shades to delicately play with volumes and colours.

Imagined and first committed to paper on August 28, the new “Twenty-8-Eight” is also a friendly wink to Mr de Witt’s illustrious ancestor, Napoleon Bonaparte, proclaimed “Emperor of the French” by the Senate on 28 Floréal of the French republican calendar. Twenty-8 is therefore a reminder of Mr de Witt’s imperial heritage, but as well as of the true passion for watchmaking that has accompanied his family throughout generations.

AUTOMATIC

The new Twenty-8-Eight Automatic is an “urban classic” timepiece, remarkably refined and sober. The 43 mm round case presents particularly comfortable proportions as it is slightly thinner (10.28 mm) than the Academia collection. Lines are also softer, as the flanks of the case are adorned by 48 small imperial columns.

Displaying hours, minutes and centre seconds, its black velvet face is artistically divided in two different guilloché zones: a light flame pattern providing incredible life to the centre of the dial, then surrounded by an elegant and reassuring sunray pattern that structures the whole design. Flames and sunrays are separated by a refined circle applique that echoes the thin and shiny columns on the bezel.

Time is indicated by fine roman numerals positioned on the four cardinal points and discretely interconnected by small cabochons. The DeWitt rotor, designed in-house, is visible through the sapphire crystal back. Finally, two miniature “W” signatures are to be found on the crown and on the golden buckle.

Limited Edition of 500

Source: www.dewitt.ch

ALPINA Genève Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

Following the great success of its first Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture – the Full Black version – at Baselworld in 2009, ALPINA Genève is proud to present two new models in gold, both issued in an extremely limited series of just 18 numbered pieces.

These new versions, both as astonishing as the first, feature a “Full Black” dial and a caliber consisting of 188 parts, equipped with a Silicium Escapement Wheel and the latest development: a Silicium lever.

After three years of Research and Development, the experts at ALPINA Genève, Swiss manufacturer of high quality sports watches, were ready to present the brand new, inhouse automatic Manufacture Tourbillon Regulator movement. A team of specialist designers, engineers and watchmakers worked hand-in-hand to revive ALPINA as a true Manufacture. Supported by the latest in high-precision equipment and driven by a passion for innovation.
Based on the award-winning Manufacture Regulator caliber, ALPINA Genève developed its own Manufactured Tourbillon Regulator: the AL-980, completely
conceived within its workshops in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. A unique movement that presents several specific, innovative features: Silicium Escapement Wheel and Silicium lever, Smart Weight Balancing™, fast oscillation at 28’800 BpH and an individually numbered Tourbillon cage.

ALPINA Genève Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

The specific and technical designs of these new Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture models capitalize on the strong brand philosophy of ALPINA: highest level of accuracy, extremely high readability, shock resistance, sturdiness and reliability. The timepiece, with a bold case diameter of 48 mm, is crafted from either titanium with a pink gold bezel, or pink gold with a black ceramic bezel. The matt black dial features finely brushed steel ALPINA Double-Digit indexes. The iconic ‘Extreme’ design elements remain, and have been coupled with a more elaborate dial design: satin-brushed touches of black in the center of the “Regulator” sub-dial, skeletonized hands in black brushed steel, unique and originally decorated bridges in the Tourbillon cage and a black PVD signature ALPINA oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The Tourbillon is one of the most valued and sought-after complications by collectors and aficionados of premium timepieces alike. A Tourbillon mechanism is extremely complex to manufacture due to the required accuracy of all the parts involved. It requires highly qualified and experienced watchmakers to be able to manufacture the ALPINA Tourbillon caliber. By combining technical complexities with the sports characteristics that contribute to the charm of this timepiece, ALPINA presents undoubtedly one of its most extreme creations in history…

RSW Outland 3H

Technical Specifications

Reference
7120

Case
Height: 52 mm, width: 44 mm, thickness: 12 mm
Four variations are available: mat 316L steel, black PVD steel, black PVD steel combined with mat 316L steel, or 18 carat pink gold combined with mat 316L steel
All cases are available with or without diamond‐setting (88 diamonds – 0.62 ct)
Sapphire crystal
Crown with patented fold‐out crank system
Water-resistant to 10 ATM
Patented folding crank‐crown mechanism.

Movement
Swiss‐made, mechanical movement with automatic winding

Functions
Hours, minutes and seconds
Date window

Dial
Black mat print index and number superluminova white.
Black mat print index and number superluminova orange.
Black mat print index and number superluminova green.
Black mat print index and number superluminova blue.
Black mat print index rose gold finish.
White mat print black mat squares superluminova white.
Silver mat print black mat squares superluminova white.
Yellow print black mat squares superluminova white.

Strap/bracelet
Black rubber with folding clasp

BLANCPAIN Introduces a “Re-imagined” Villeret Moon Phase

Baselworld 2010 marks the 275th Anniversary for Blancpain and is the occasion for the debut of a new Villeret Collection. The first timepiece from this new series to be unveiled is a new complete calendar moon-phase model featuring a fully secure calendar mechanism, and under-lug correctors, fitted into a half-hunter red gold case.

This new Blancpain Villeret Collection distills aesthetics and complications that have been at Blancpain’s core since the early 1980s. The understatement and elegance that have always marked Blancpain’s Villeret models have been brought forward in a new way, backed by the technical advances achieved through Blancpain’s heavy investment in movement development over the past several years.

The complete calendar moon-phase has always been the signature complication for the Villeret Collection. This Blancpain’s exclusive in-house automatic calibre is fitted with a balance oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with an antimagnetic index assembly, and with two barrels guaranteeing it a 72-hour power reserve. Nearly as complex as a full perpetual calendar, this Villeret model features a revolutionary method for adjusting the indications without fear of movement damage, regardless of the time of day. To facilitate setting of the indications, Blancpain has equipped the new Villeret timepiece with its patented under-lug correctors. This not only leaves the sides of the watches with a remarkably pure finish, unmarred by the presence of adjusters, but also means that changes can be accomplished with one’s finger tips instead of requiring a dedicated tool.

For the first model of the new Villeret Collection, Blancpain has opted for a 40 mm red gold half-hunter case and a decorated opaline dial.

Source: www.blancpain.com

Eberhard & co. TAZIO NUVOLARI EDITION LIMITÉE GRAND PRIX TN

A MARRIAGE OF TRADITION AND MODERNITY

On the occasion of the next International Basel Fair, Eberhard & Co. will present as special preview the new “Tazio Nuvolari Edition Limitée Grand Prix TN” in 18 ct. red gold.

Ever mindful of all that has left its mark on history, Eberhard is once again inspired by Tazio Nuvolari, myth of motor sport, to whom it dedicates an exclusive chronograph that is distinguished by the untarnishable value and incomparable nobility associated with the intrinsic elegance of gold.

The new gold version of “Tazio Nuvolari Grand Prix” retains the distinctive characteristics of the steel one, created and produced with a deliberate philosophy, based on the instrumentation of the vintage racing car, which reflected the demands of essentialness, distinctness, ease of reading, precision, weatherproofing and shock resistance, all indispensable requirements that are also featured in the new edition of the watch. The driver’s seat of the extraordinary vehicles, in which the much celebrated driver achieved many victories, was in fact one of the sources that inspired Eberhard’s technicians, both on the aesthetic and functional levels.

Produced in a limited edition of 123 pieces, “Tazio Nuvolari Grand Prix Or” has a tough case of generous proportions (Ø 43 mm), a case back secured by 8 screws, upon which the autograph of the driver is engraved in red and, on the outer part, an elegant circular-grained finish matching the kilometers per hour tachometer scale on the flange.

The dial, enhanced by the brilliance of the refined “Black Or” finish, is readily visible, thanks to the generous diameter of the two counters, the large Arabic numerals and the luminous hands that make for maximum legibility.

Adding to the obviously sportive character of this model, the interplay of black and red chosen as the dominant colors, endows the watch with a particular toughness: the black provides the background for the dial on which the Arabic numerals stand proudly and for the ceramic bezel, while the red enhances the small details on the dial and the miles per hour tachometer scale engraved on the bezel. The final touch is provided by the black alligator strap that comes alive with the vivacious splash of its red stitching.

This is a timeless, charming proposal with which Eberhard & Co. pays homage once again to the passion for motor cars which has always been associated with the passion for measuring time, creating the perfect combination. So “Tazio Nuvolari Grand Prix Or” becomes synonymous with passion, strength and speed, all fundamental characteristics of the essence of sports racing and its long and deep-rooted tradition, cleverly incorporated in this exclusive chronograph by Eberhard & Co.

Technical Specifications

Reference:
30067. Limited Edition to 123 pieces

Movement:
base ETA 7750 13 1/4”
Mechanical chronograph with automatic winding.
Two counters:
- counter “30 minutes” at 12 o’clock
- counter “12 hours” at 6 o’clock

Case:
18 ct. red gold 5N – Ø 43,00 mm. – thickness 13,00 mm.

Case back:
locked by 8 screws – inner part polished, with engravings;
circular-grained bevel.

Strap attachment: 21,00 mm.

Water-resistance:
3 atm.

Crown:
screw-in, personalized “E”

Push-buttons:
rectangular

Bezel:
in black ceramic, with red tachometer scale in miles/h, engraved.

Glass:
sapphire, non-reflecting treatment on the internal part.

Dial:
black, with Black Or treatment (9 ct.)
Arabic numerals, luminescent, with red profile.
The central seconds hand, the small, luminescent counters’ hands as well as the counters’ contour, the inscription “Edition Limitée Grand Prix TN” and
the carapace “TN” are all further details in red color.
Black flange with Black Or treatment (9 ct.) and circular-grained finish.
Tachometer scale in km/h.

Hands:
bâton type, luminescent.

Strap:
in alligator, black with red stitching; red gold-plated buckle, personalized “E&C”.